Showing posts with label specialty coffee blog. Show all posts
Showing posts with label specialty coffee blog. Show all posts

Saturday, May 2, 2026

Centroamericano Coffee Review: The Underrated High-Yield Variety with Bright Citrus & Tea-Like Finish

 One of our “old friends” from past features—Finca Santa Maria—is back again! Lately, I’ve been drinking quite a few coffees from this estate, and I’ve noticed something interesting: not only do they have a distinctive approach to coffee varietal selection and cultivation, but even under similar terroir conditions, they really highlight the flavor differences between different varieties. And honestly, that’s a pretty exciting experience.


When people hear “Finca Santa Maria,” the first thing that comes to mind is probably Geisha. But in reality, the estate grows a wide range of other varieties as well. Just a few days ago, we talked about a variety called Centroamericano. As an F1 hybrid, it’s a cross between the rust-resistant T5296 and the Ethiopian landrace Rume Sudan. The former gives Centroamericano its strong, resilient structure, while the latter contributes a refined and classic flavor profile.

With yields roughly twice that of traditional varieties and enormous quality potential, Centroamericano holds significant value in the coffee market. In fact, many industry professionals even consider it “the future of coffee.”


Today, we’re going to take a closer look at this washed Centroamericano from Finca Santa Maria through a flavor review. Before diving into the tasting notes, I looked into some scientific research on its aromatic compounds. A study published in 2020 compared Centroamericano with the traditional Central American variety Caturra. The findings showed that Centroamericano contains higher levels of d-limonene—a compound responsible for citrus-like aromas. This helps explain why this variety ხშირად expresses such bright citrus notes.


As early as 2017, Centroamericano grown at Finca La Bestia in Nicaragua scored an impressive 90.5 points in the Cup of Excellence (COE). That score tells us something important: this variety doesn’t just excel in yield and disease resistance—it also delivers in the cup.

That said, as an F1 hybrid, Centroamericano’s flavor expression is highly influenced by factors like growing environment, altitude, and processing method. The same variety can taste quite different depending on the farm. In a way, that’s what makes it so special—it proves that high yield and disease resistance don’t have to come at the cost of flavor.


Since Centroamericano is still relatively under the radar, I want to spend a bit more time describing its physical characteristics. Even after roasting, you can still notice how large the beans are—visually full and weighty, clearly on the larger side. Interestingly, the plant itself is actually compact and dwarf-like, making it easier to manage and harvest. It’s a bit of a charming contrast: small trees producing relatively large beans. While it’s not as exaggerated as Pacamara’s “giant beans,” it’s definitely among the larger Arabica varieties.

Once ground, the dry aroma reminds me of green apple and sweet plum juice. After brewing, the most striking impression is how wide and layered the flavor structure feels. Up front, you get a lively, juicy sweetness with stone fruit acidity. Moving into the mid-palate, there’s a sense of balance and a solid body, bringing in nutty notes. The finish leans toward a black tea-like elegance, with excellent layering throughout.

Genetics really do matter. For a hybrid with such strong resistance to coffee leaf rust, maintaining this level of flavor integrity is seriously impressive.

In my opinion, Centroamericano is a severely underrated variety. Its biggest strength lies in its complexity: you get clear fruit notes (peach, citrus), alongside warm nutty and chocolate tones (hazelnut, cocoa). As the roaster for this particular coffee, Zhu Huan Coffee didn’t push the heavier aspects too far. Instead, the finish is lighter, more tea-like, with a gentle transition into chocolate notes in the mid-to-late stages—creating a layered yet highly drinkable cup.

Regardless of roasting style, I think the general flavor trajectory of Centroamericano tends to follow a pattern: citrus notes as the foundation, stone fruit sweetness in the middle, and a finish of nuts, cocoa, or even black tea.

So if we were to summarize it:

Centroamericano = compact plant + large beans + high yield + strong leaf rust resistance + high quality potential.

That’s a pretty rare combination in the coffee world. Beneath its “practical” traits of productivity and resilience lies a surprisingly deep and expressive flavor profile.

Tuesday, April 21, 2026

Slow Coffee in Shanghai: A Hidden Café That Invites You to Take Your Time

 As one of China’s top-tier metropolitan cities, Shanghai, to me, is defined not only by its remarkable openness and cultural diversity, but also by one underlying force that fuels it all: speed.

It’s a city where even red lights make you want to hurry across the street. Time here is measured with precision—subways arrive every few minutes, food deliveries show up within minutes, emails are expected to be answered within minutes. Beneath the city’s glamour often lies a quiet sense of anxiety. Sometimes, when we step into a café, it’s not entirely for the coffee—it’s to catch our breath.

Maybe it’s the younger generation that understands this quiet helplessness the most. That’s why the phrase “Take your time in life” feels especially gentle. And it was exactly this kind of gentleness that moved me during my recent visit.

Tucked away at 222 Danshui Road in Shanghai’s Huangpu District is a café with a simple, memorable name: Buji Café Shop. Buji—which literally means “no rush”—echoes the message displayed right at the entrance: “Take your time in life.” In a city where “faster” has become a form of productivity, and coffee itself is often reduced to a functional caffeine fix, this place feels like a quiet act of resistance—an invitation to slow down and simply sit for a while.

I especially love the storefront of Buji. Paired with a bicycle overflowing with fresh flowers, it feels like a scene from an early spring outing—effortless and serene. I’m quite familiar with Danshui Road; over the years, I’ve visited many cafés here. The narrow, old streets carry a sense of local culture, along with the warmth of everyday life. If you truly take the time to experience Shanghai, you’ll find that beneath the fast-paced surface, there’s a softness capable of healing you. “Taking it slow” here isn’t about laziness or giving up—it’s more like being told: here, you’re allowed not to rush.

Right by the entrance sits a fish tank filled with tropical fish, catching the attention of nearly everyone who passes by. Some children gently tap on the glass to interact, others pause to watch, and some are drawn inside, ordering a coffee and quietly observing the fish glide freely through the water. In a way, this too feels like the perfect expression of “taking it slow.”

The café itself is compact, but the high ceiling makes it feel open and airy. There’s also a small loft upstairs—a cozy little nook you can claim as your own. If you’re looking for a quiet moment alone, the downstairs area feels like a sanctuary for the soul.

In a place like this, I prefer sitting at the bar. It gives me a reason to spend two minutes watching a shot of espresso slowly drip into the cup. I can zone out while staring at the fish tank—and I even noticed one particularly assertive fish claiming the best spot where the water temperature and oxygen levels are just right. A row of unfamiliar potted plants sits nearby, each quietly radiating resilience. In that moment, I realized this kind of “slowness” isn’t about procrastination—it’s about carving out a space for yourself within the city’s dense rhythm, a space that isn’t dictated by efficiency.

The café offers four house espresso beans, each with its own catchy name. After taking a closer look, I put together my own combination. The barista even complimented my order, saying it’s a favorite among many regulars—so I must’ve done something right, haha.

One of their single-origin espresso options, called “Orange Sea,” is a dark-roasted natural Ethiopian. Its dry aroma, enhanced by the deeper roast, carries hints of chocolate, but more prominently, notes of dried fruit. It holds onto the classic foundation of traditional espresso while adding layers of flavor complexity, making it a highly versatile bean.

I naturally chose it for a flat white. The result was smooth and well-balanced, with a rich sweetness. It turned out cleaner than I expected, filled with dried fruit notes—like red fruits transformed into fruit leather—along with a soft, rounded texture reminiscent of a creamy cake.

At that moment, the phrase “Take your time in life”—displayed above the bar—felt like more than just decoration. It seemed like a declaration of the owner’s philosophy toward extraction. Not every Ethiopian coffee needs to be lightly roasted to preserve floral notes. A darker roast, when done right, can bring out the richness of dried fruits and a creamy softness—an unexpected delight worth savoring slowly. And by allowing enough time for the coffee grounds and water to interact, you extract the bean’s most authentic flavors. This kind of “slowness” is a form of respect for the integrity of the coffee.

For contrast, I also chose a lighter, medium roast option—a Colombian washed coffee called “La Vie en Rose.” Its dry aroma carries a hint of tropical fruit. It works especially well as a black coffee, since an Americano allows the flavors to fully open up. You’ll taste a bright balance of fruity acidity and sweetness, followed by notes of caramel and a touch of chocolate toward the finish. Its layered profile evolves with each sip, offering a vivid, almost tangible sense of progression.

Talking about “taking it slow” in Shanghai is, in many ways, both a luxury and a form of romance. It’s not about giving up the hustle—it’s about knowing that when you’re tired, there’s a chair waiting for you; when it rains, there’s a warm cup of coffee ready. Life is long—it won’t be defined by the time it takes to enjoy one cup of coffee.

To me, the phrase on the storefront is also an invitation. To those who walk in, it says: there’s no rush here—you can sit all afternoon and leave whenever you’re ready. And to those just passing by: even if you don’t step inside, if that one sentence makes you pause for a second, brings a faint smile to your lips, or makes you quietly think, “Yeah… no need to rush,” then you’ve already formed a warm, subtle connection—with this café, and with the city itself.

Saturday, April 18, 2026

ROSSO Winter Blend Review: A Complex Espresso with Brazilian, Colombian & Ethiopian Beans

 I’ve noticed that the more coffee I drink, the more I start paying attention to specific origins and roasters I’ve been thinking about for a long time. Even if I can’t just drop by their café in person, being able to “visit remotely” by brewing one of their coffees at home already feels incredibly satisfying.

In my mind, I seem to carry around a running list of these little “obsessions”—all the coffees I still want to try. And on that list sits a Canadian roaster called ROSSO Coffee Roasters. They have five cafés in Calgary and frequently appear in international competitions. I even crossed paths with them once at a coffee festival, but somehow always just missed the chance to actually taste their beans—until now. This time, I finally got to check that off my list.

ROSSO is definitely one of the more established roasters in Canada. Over the past 16 years, they’ve continuously challenged traditional coffee practices to develop their own approach. Interestingly, you won’t find much of a typical North American roasting signature in their coffees. Instead, their style leans more toward an Australian and Nordic influence—thoughtful, expressive, and often layered with subtle, delightful surprises.

The espresso blend I chose was their “Winter Limited” release from last year. I’ve talked before about seasonal blends (why there’s always an espresso called a “seasonal blend”), and this one aims to capture a sense of warmth and comfort during winter. It brings together cozy spice notes, bright chocolate, and caramel-toffee sweetness.


Many roasters draw inspiration from seasonal changes when creating blends, but the choice of origins and processing methods can vary significantly. Those differences are often what reveal a roaster’s true craftsmanship. What makes ROSSO particularly exciting to explore is how they weave something “unconventional” into familiar traditions—creating moments of surprise and appreciation in the cup. It really makes you feel like playing with coffee is a genuinely joyful experience.

One component of this blend is a natural-processed Yellow Bourbon from Minas Gerais, Brazil, produced by Hélcio Carneiro. He started working with coffee at just 15 years old on his mother’s farm, and by 1976 he was managing Fazenda Santa Lucia, a 740-hectare estate. Only a portion of the land is dedicated to coffee, with the rest used for crops like bananas and corn. Coffee is grown at elevations between 900 and 1,250 meters, primarily featuring Yellow Catuai and Yellow Bourbon.

The farm follows a “rest and recovery” approach—half of the coffee trees are pruned while the other half are left untouched. The pruned trees rest for the next harvest cycle, producing nothing during that period. This system maintains productivity at around 80–90 bags per hectare—roughly three times the yield of non-pruned systems—while also lowering costs and improving quality.

In the cup, this Brazilian component is exceptionally clean and structured, with notes of nuts and milk chocolate—not dark chocolate, but a softer, creamier profile, even hinting at peanut candy. Much of that comforting sweetness likely comes from this Brazilian base.

The second component is an anaerobic natural Red and Yellow Caturra from Tolima, Colombia, produced by the Bayter family at El Vergel Estate. Originally founded in 1995 as an avocado farm—once one of the country’s largest producers—they transitioned to coffee in 2006 after a crop crisis. They focus mainly on Castillo and Red/Yellow Caturra varieties.

Between 2014 and 2015, the farm earned Rainforest Alliance certification. By 2018, they had modernized significantly, incorporating both aerobic and anaerobic processing methods, along with silo storage. Today, the Bayter family is deeply involved in fermentation research, experimenting with new processes and cultivating over 28 varieties. They’re also recognized as one of the first farms in Colombia to develop advanced fermentation techniques.

This Colombian coffee essentially forms the backbone of the blend—from dry aroma to final cup profile. That rich, creamy sweetness and floral-fruity intensity you notice right after grinding comes largely from this component.

The final “hidden gem” in the blend is a washed heirloom coffee from Banko Chelchele in Ethiopia. Located in the Gedeo zone of southern Ethiopia, this region is renowned for producing some of the country’s most expressive coffees, thanks to its volcanic soil, high elevation, and ideal microclimate.

This Ethiopian component brings cohesion, extension, and fullness to the blend. In milk-based drinks especially, you can clearly sense its presence, contributing a classic Ethiopian citrus sweetness and a refined aromatic lift.

Right after grinding, the dry aroma is bursting with juicy berry sweetness, layered with tropical fruit and intense florals from the anaerobic process—along with a subtle creamy sweetness underneath. Once extracted as espresso, the crema is impressively rich and aromatic.

The first sip of espresso is surprisingly harmonious. Ethiopia, Colombia, and Brazil seem to reach a perfect balance—you experience a seamless interplay of acidity and sweetness from start to finish. The finish is remarkably clean, making the coffee incredibly approachable and enjoyable.

As for milk drinks—whether it’s a latte, a flat white, or even a dirty coffee—the flavor holds up beautifully. The standout impression is a vibrant espresso character, with notes of fruit candy, milk chocolate, and a sweetness so clean it almost resembles maple syrup. In a flat white, where the coffee ratio is slightly higher, citrus and honey notes become more pronounced, accompanied by hints of tropical fruit.

All in all, although this is a “winter limited” blend, its expression feels almost like summer—lively and radiant. The Brazilian natural Yellow Bourbon provides a smooth, nutty-sweet foundation. The Colombian anaerobic natural adds complexity and depth, bringing warm spice and fruit notes perfect for winter. Meanwhile, the Ethiopian washed heirloom contributes elegance, clarity, and floral-fruity brightness.

Every sip is deeply satisfying—and it’s especially well-suited for milk-based drinks during the colder season.