A Rare Cold-Washed Obata Coffee from Denmark’s POMA Lab

 A few days ago, I introduced the cold-wash processing method developed by POMA Lab in Denmark, and I mentioned that I’d soon share a flavor review of the beans they grow and roast themselves. This is actually the first time I’ve ever tasted coffee beans produced directly from a research lab. Since they are both the growers and the roasters, this batch definitely counts as a rare find—haha.

POMA is a coffee research and roasting company founded in Copenhagen in 2024. Their mission is to develop coffee production technologies that can be easily adopted by farmers around the world, helping address industry challenges and bridge the gap between research and real-world application. Their main research facility is a greenhouse on the Danish island of Funen, where they simulate different farm microclimates to observe, study, and adjust various coffee production methods.

They developed the POMA Cultivation System—a comprehensive set of best agricultural practices designed to unlock the full potential of both new and existing varieties while pushing coffee production toward greater systematization and standardization. The system combines cutting-edge scientific research with practical field-tested methods, making it not only innovative but also highly accessible to farmers.

Inside the greenhouse, they manipulate environmental factors using plant-growth simulation algorithms. This allows them to study how coffee trees respond to climate change while maintaining stable conditions to examine the effects of farming practices. Their experiments cover nearly every aspect of coffee cultivation, with a special focus on crop-load management, growth regulation, water and nutrient optimization, and understanding how climate affects coffee quality and plant physiology.

Currently, they’re studying widely cultivated varieties such as Bourbon, Typica, Pacamara, Catuai, Caturra, and Geisha, ensuring their work remains directly relevant to farmers. All research findings are openly available for validation in real-world production environments. Typically, it takes 8 to 12 years for a technique to go from initial lab work to becoming a tool farmers can reliably use. In a way, that timeline reflects a kind of dedicated, almost spiritual commitment.

So POMA isn’t just “doing experiments in a lab.” They also collaborate closely with farms, transferring their technology to real-world applications and helping solve practical production challenges to make sustainable practices more accessible and effective. Their current projects include soil nutrition, shading systems, crop-load management, controlled pollination, and microclimate studies.

The beans I purchased this time come directly from the POMA Research Station, grown in an environment engineered to simulate an altitude of around 1,000 meters. The variety itself is quite special—and it’s my first time trying it. It’s called Obata, a modern Arabica hybrid created by the Campinas Agronomic Institute (IAC) in Brazil. The variety is a cross between Timor Hybrid (which contains Robusta genes) and Villa Sarchi, giving it both disease resistance and specialty-coffee potential.

A bit about the parent varieties:
Timor Hybrid—often called “Tim Tim”—is itself a cross between Arabica and Robusta. The beans are huge and elongated, sometimes even nicknamed “Long Mandheling.” Thanks to its Robusta lineage, Tim Tim typically has low to medium acidity, a heavy body, and strong viscosity.
Villa Sarchi, on the other hand, is a natural Bourbon mutation from Costa Rica, known for its lively acidity and sweetness. So you can imagine: one parent leans deep and balanced, the other bright and sweet—a complementary pairing, haha.

The core of the cold-wash process is an initial 48-hour chill at 8°C. After that, the cherries are fully depulped and washed, then dried in a pressurized rotating dryer at temperatures below 10°C. This low-temperature environment forces yeast and the beans themselves into a dormant state, inhibiting fermentation. The goal is to preserve and amplify the coffee’s inherent aromas without introducing additional yeast or triggering active fermentation. Essentially, the process aims to showcase the purest, most natural expression of the coffee beans.

They even performed pre-roast GC-MS analysis on cold-washed green coffee. Using Caturra as an example, they found that key aromatic compounds were better preserved and enhanced compared to traditional washed processing.

Each batch from POMA comes in a paper box, and inside is a vacuum-sealed one-way-valve bag. Before opening, it feels hard like a brick—haha. Once opened, the beans don’t give off any particularly strong aroma, but you can immediately notice their size—likely thanks to the Tim Tim lineage. After grinding, the dry fragrance shows hints of cooked apple and a light touch of spice, but overall, the aroma is relatively subtle without any unpleasant notes.

I treated this coffee both as a daily drinker and a test subject for more controlled brewing parameters. Across several brews, its main characteristics became clear: the sweetness is strong and consistent throughout. Even though the flavor profile at higher temperatures feels somewhat muted, the sweetness remains steady. As the temperature drops, the acidity rises and becomes pleasantly citrus-like, with some sweetness reminiscent of red berries. However, if you brew it with a fast-drip method, it may reveal the same weakness as its dry aroma—its flavor structure is relatively short. There aren’t many layers to latch onto; its main strengths are sweetness, cleanliness, and a light, balanced cup profile.

Compared to traditional washed coffees, I find this one more approachable and much more forgiving across brewing methods. You’ll almost never get overly bright acidity—haha. Its sweetness and balance make it appealing to a wider range of drinkers.

As for the bean variety itself, neither Timor Hybrid nor Villa Sarchi is considered a “premium” or prestigious cultivar. Both have flavor limitations. The typical “wild” character of Timor is barely noticeable in this hybrid. Its balance and cleanliness make it feel more restrained, though at the cost of losing some of the distinctive traits associated with its lineage. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. If you’re seeking smooth mouthfeel and an easy-drinking profile, Obata is absolutely worth trying. But if you’re looking for layered complexity and strong flavor identity, it may leave you disappointed.