Showing posts with label specialty coffee review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label specialty coffee review. Show all posts

Saturday, May 16, 2026

Wild Pigeon Coffee Review: Is No. 5 Hang Kong Road the Ultimate Espresso Blend?

 The roaster behind the beans I’m reviewing today is an "old friend" I’ve shared before. They are one of my personal favorites for specialty coffee because their roasting is incredibly consistent, and the value for the money is top-notch. In fact, my previous reviews of "Wild Pigeon" beans have seen some of my highest readerships ever, and many of you are already fans yourselves—it seems great minds really do think alike! I’ve always been partial to their espresso beans; whether it’s a blend or a Single Origin Espresso (SOE), they always deliver a fantastic flavor profile while ensuring a consistent experience with every cup. It’s hard not to love that.


In the realm of dark and medium-dark roasts, "Wild Pigeon" offers several espresso blends with different recipes. I personally chose the "Wild Pigeon No. 5 Hang Kong Road." This is a medium-dark blend of Ethiopian, Colombian, and Rwandan beans. Just by looking at the regions, you can tell it’s a "Golden Trio" combo, where each origin plays a distinct and complementary role. The Ethiopian beans act as the soul of the blend, providing fresh citrus and clean acidity—the "game-changer" that breaks up the heaviness of a medium-dark roast. The Colombian beans serve as the bridge, balancing sweetness and soft body; they are the "glue" that connects acidity with bitterness, and fruitiness with nuttiness. Finally, the Rwandan beans provide the foundation, offering a solid, heavy base of dark chocolate and nuts that anchors the body and flavor.

The dry aroma of these beans right after grinding is dominated by chocolate, layered with nutty notes. If you’re thinking this sounds like a typical traditional blend, here’s the twist: you can clearly catch a clean, citrusy acidity in the scent. It is an exceptionally clean medium-dark roast—so clean, in fact, that it almost defies its roast level. There’s no trace of smoke or ashiness. It’s simultaneously bold and heavy yet fresh and clean. These descriptions might seem contradictory, but they make you look forward to every shot. It’s clearly another "powerhouse" espresso blend with rock-solid consistency.


Let’s start with the espresso extraction. Any espresso-based drink starts with the shot, and these beans are "universal" in terms of extraction. They consistently produce a rich crema and a deep aroma, making them suitable for almost any coffee drink. You don’t even have to obsess over the exact ratios because the flavor presence is so strong. The crema is incredibly thick, bursting with wet aromas of chocolate and nuts. The first sip is a pleasant surprise: a gentle, citrusy acidity hits first. This acidity is accompanied by sweetness, so it doesn't feel sharp or overly bright. Then, it transitions into dark chocolate and nutty notes, finishing with a balanced, toffee-like sweetness in the aftertaste.


That initial, distinct citrus acidity likely comes from the Ethiopian beans. Even at a medium-dark roast, the characteristic citrus and floral notes of Ethiopian coffee maintain a bright "backbone," preventing the cup from feeling dull. This, I believe, is the core expression that makes this recipe "classic yet elevated." The inclusion of Ethiopian beans gives this blend more layers and a surprising "front-end" experience, rather than just being a simple bitter-sweet chocolate bomb.

When Rwandan beans reach a medium-dark roast, their heavy body and clear chocolate profile come through perfectly, sometimes with hints of berry or tobacco. However, these beans perfectly avoid any smokiness, providing a solid, heavy body and abundant crema. Their presence ensures the coffee doesn't feel thin, giving it great impact and a supportive finish. Connecting all of this is the Colombian component. It isn’t as "jumpy" as the Ethiopian; instead, it brings nuts, caramel, and a soft fruity sweetness. The toffee finish and the overall smooth drinkability are largely thanks to the Colombian beans.


The most important aspect of its flavor profile is that it retains a bold, prominent character while maintaining balance and cleanliness. This is what you’d call a "signature house blend," meaning it has a high margin for error during brewing and stays consistent cup after cup. The core flavors will fill every drink you make.

Because of my personal preference, I usually go for light-roast espresso beans, so I prefer using medium-dark roasts like this for milk-based drinks. I specifically tried it in a Flat White, a Latte, and a Dirty. I found that while the flavor emphasis shifted slightly between them, the overall perception remained clean, balanced, and very smooth. In short, three thoughts will loop in your mind: Ethiopia surprises you (how is there citrus in a medium-dark?), Colombia keeps you comfortable (the sour, sweet, and bitter notes don't clash), and Rwanda makes you remember it (dark chocolate finish and heavy mouthfeel). It’s a "powerhouse" performance that is both complex and unified.

Monday, April 27, 2026

Finca Sophia Washed Geisha Review: Ultra-High Altitude Coffee from Panama’s Poro Lot

 Not long ago, I shared with you a sun-dried Geisha from the Hummingbird lot at Finca Sophia in Panama. Established in 2008, Finca Sophia sits high in the Panamanian highlands, at elevations ranging from 1,900 to 2,124 meters—making it one of the highest coffee farms in the country. The farm gained global recognition after winning first place in the washed Geisha category at the Best of Panama (BOP) competitions in both 2017 and 2020, also setting record-breaking auction prices. Since then, Finca Sophia has steadily entered the spotlight.

Today, we’re shifting our focus to another plot within the farm—Poro, also known as the “Sacred Wood” lot. Compared to the Hummingbird lot, this area sits even higher, between 2,026 and 2,094 meters. Personally, I consider anything above 2,000 meters to be truly ultra-high altitude for coffee cultivation. It’s almost hard to imagine just how sweet a coffee grown at this elevation can be—honestly, it feels a bit unreal.


The previous natural-processed coffee already captivated me with its intoxicating dry aroma right after grinding. But this washed Geisha takes things in a different direction—it delivers a sweetness and clarity that go beyond what you’d typically expect from a washed coffee. Across both tastings, one thing became very clear to me: although Finca Sophia isn’t a large estate, each micro-lot expresses a remarkably distinct terroir. It’s a place with immense flavor potential and flexibility. There’s something genuinely exciting about tasting the diversity that the land itself can produce—I’ve felt that sense of discovery in every brew.


Most of what I’ve shared about Finca Sophia in the past has focused on terroir and processing methods. But lately, I’ve found myself a bit obsessed with this farm, so I started exploring it from a more emotional and human perspective. And what I discovered is that Finca Sophia is also a place filled with love and a sense of romance.

The name “Sophia” comes from the Greek goddess of wisdom, and the farm’s logo is inspired by a highland dove that inhabits the estate—known in Spanish as Torcaza. If you browse their official website, you’ll notice the logo carries a subtle sense of sacredness. At times, it almost feels like Finca Sophia is an “experimental farm” created to push the limits of what’s possible.


Interestingly, the land where Finca Sophia now stands was once heavily degraded due to early development and intensive agriculture. When Willem Boot purchased the land in 2008, many coffee growers advised him to give up, warning that growing coffee here would be extremely difficult. But his vision was clear: he wanted to explore the upper limits of altitude for cultivating world-class coffee.

In 2009, he planted 15,000 Geisha seedlings at an altitude of 2,150 meters—the highest point on the farm. Unfortunately, they were all wiped out by fungal disease and strong mountain winds. Undeterred, the team regrouped in 2011–2012, refining their cultivation techniques, selecting stronger, disease-resistant plants, and gradually rehabilitating sections of the land.

Willem summarized the spirit of Finca Sophia in three words: persistence, patience, and passion. He is often referred to as the “Godfather of Geisha.”

Alongside coffee cultivation, the farm has planted hundreds of native and climate-appropriate shade trees, restored 15 hectares of previously deforested land, and left 4 hectares adjacent to La Amistad National Park untouched to preserve the original forest. Today, birds have returned, and the farm serves as an ecological buffer zone between the national park and agricultural land.

Honestly, I sometimes feel that it’s because of these meaningful and responsible efforts that nature has rewarded them in return—allowing us to experience such extraordinary coffee today.

While reading through some of Finca Sophia’s past competition stories, one moment stood out to me. During the 2017 judging, an experienced American judge questioned whether a coffee scoring above 93 points could truly be washed, given its complexity and balance of sweetness and acidity—it simply didn’t “taste like a washed coffee.” Yet the final reveal confirmed that it was indeed a fully washed Geisha, with all its remarkable flavors coming purely from the coffee itself.


That story resonated deeply with what I experienced in this cup.

The dry aroma after grinding bursts with vibrant red fruit notes, layered with hints of sweet apricot, dried plum, and preserved plum. This level of intensity and complexity is extremely rare in washed coffees—it goes far beyond expectations.

Once brewed, the wet aroma reveals clear notes of bergamot, delivering a bright citrus profile. On the palate, it transitions from sweet orange to blood orange—a fascinating and somewhat uncommon flavor progression. In the mid-to-late stages, subtle pomelo notes emerge, accompanied by a delicate tea-like bitterness. The cup remains exceptionally clean, with strong layering and a satisfying body.

That final combination of refreshing pomelo and tea-like bitterness gives the entire flavor journey a narrative quality—it feels almost like a story unfolding in the cup.

Overall, I think the terroir of the Poro lot expresses itself through several key advantages. The mineral-rich volcanic soils surrounding Barú Volcano contribute to the coffee’s bright citrus acidity and floral character. The slow maturation at high altitude allows for greater sugar development and more complex acidity—forming the foundation for that beautiful transition from sweet orange to blood orange. Meanwhile, the clean washed process allows the terroir to shine through in its purest form, resulting in a cup that is clean, layered, and still full-bodied.

Whether it’s the Hummingbird lot or the Poro lot, each micro-batch from Finca Sophia feels like a reflection of the farm’s core spirit—persistence, patience, and passion. And every time we brew and taste these coffees, it feels like a quiet tribute to the land itself.

Friday, April 24, 2026

Panama Finca Los Cenizos Catuai Review: Anaerobic Slow Dry Coffee with Exceptional Value

 Over the past few months, I’ve been sharing quite a few tasting notes on “non-Gesha” varieties from some of the world’s most renowned coffee estates. Personally, I see these coffees as the true “kings of value.” You get to experience the exceptional green bean processing expertise of these prestigious farms—without paying the premium price tag that Gesha typically commands—yet still enjoy a remarkably satisfying flavor experience.

Today, I want to introduce a coffee estate that’s making its first appearance in my reviews: Finca Los Cenizos in Panama.

This is also my first time tasting coffee from Finca Los Cenizos. Even though this particular lot is a Catuai processed using the ASD method, I was immediately captivated by its elegance and refined flavor profile. The farm is a family-owned operation located in the highlands of Cerro Punta—a stunning volcanic valley where sweet mountain spring water flows through the landscape, surrounded by rich biodiversity.

The growing conditions here are exceptional. The region benefits from a unique microclimate, and much of the coffee is cultivated under the shade of ash trees that are over a century old. These natural shade conditions play a crucial role in the farm’s cultivation practices—and are also the origin of its name, as “Cenizos” means “ash trees” in Spanish.

Situated at elevations between 1,800 and over 2,200 meters, the high altitude significantly slows down the coffee’s maturation process. This extended development allows the beans to build greater complexity and juiciness in the cup.

The current owner, Estela Pitti, is the first-generation female coffee producer in the Cerro Punta region. She grew up and studied in Boquete, and her family acquired Finca Los Cenizos in 2008. From a young age, she showed a strong passion for agriculture and production. Today, Estela works alongside her children, Stella Marie and Niko, continuing to pursue their shared vision: producing high-end, terroir-driven coffees that exist in harmony with nature while showcasing the unique character of Panama’s land.


The farm’s team is composed of 99% experienced growers from the local Ngäbe-Buglé community. With proper training, they are highly skilled in managing all aspects of specialty coffee cultivation. Since beginning agricultural operations in 2008, innovation has remained one of the farm’s top priorities. They continuously experiment with different processing methods, guided by a core belief: “Panama’s terroir speaks.” Each harvest is a dialogue with the land, and every cup is an interpretation of its voice.

Since 2019, Finca Los Cenizos has been a consistent standout at the Best of Panama (BOP) competition. In the most recent 2025 BOP, they achieved 2nd place in the Natural Gesha category (96.25 points) and 6th place in the Washed Gesha category (94.38 points). In addition, their Natural Catuai placed 6th (90.38 points) in the non-Gesha auction (multi-variety category). Earning placements across all three categories in a single year is an impressive accomplishment.

Now let’s talk about the processing method behind this coffee. In recent years, the ASD method has gained significant attention in the specialty coffee world and is now widely adopted by top-tier farms—especially in Panama.

ASD stands for Anaerobic Slow Dry. As the name suggests, the “slow” aspect refers to extending the drying time through precise temperature control. Typically, this involves around 120 hours of anaerobic fermentation, though the exact duration may vary slightly depending on the farm or specific lot—reflecting fine-tuned adjustments to the process.

By carefully controlling both fermentation time and drying speed, this method unlocks extraordinary flavor potential in the beans.

The process itself is both time-consuming and meticulous, consisting of two main stages. First, hand-picked fully ripe red cherries are placed whole into sealed stainless steel tanks. Carbon dioxide is introduced to displace oxygen, creating an anaerobic environment. In the absence of oxygen, enzymes and microorganisms inside the cherries undergo entirely different transformations compared to aerobic fermentation, producing a greater abundance of aromatic precursors—laying the foundation for a more complex final flavor.

After fermentation, the cherries are carefully transferred to African raised beds for slow drying. By controlling the thickness of the layers and the frequency of turning, moisture is allowed to evaporate gradually and evenly. This results in enhanced sweetness, along with a cleaner and rounder mouthfeel.

As for this particular coffee, the dry aroma after grinding is instantly captivating—notes of strawberry jam, melon, and a blend of tropical fruits come together in a rich, candy-like sweetness. It’s incredibly inviting.

From my experience, the optimal resting period is around 4 to 5 days after roasting. Brewing with 91°C (about 196°F) water and keeping the total brew time under 2 minutes, with a brew ratio of approximately 1:13, yields a beautifully expressive cup.

You’ll get a profile dominated by berry-like flavors. Even the wet aroma is already bursting with fruitiness. On the palate, the first sip at higher temperatures delivers a gentle acidity, blending berry and stone fruit characteristics into a harmonious sweet-tart balance.

This “80-hour anaerobic slow dry” Catuai is a coffee with remarkable clarity and character. It achieves a perfect balance between lively fruit expression and a full, rounded body. Most importantly, there’s no overwhelming fermented note—just a clean, smooth, and richly structured cup with a natural-process profile.

With every sip, you can truly feel what Finca Los Cenizos has infused into these “golden 80 hours”: their care, their labor, and the imprint of the land itself. Here, terroir isn’t just a backdrop—it’s the first voice, faithfully expressed in every mouthful.

Saturday, March 21, 2026

Goliath Bourbon Coffee Review: El Salvador Finca Siberia’s Rare Giant Bean Experience

 Today I’ve got something truly special to share—a heavyweight feature.

When it comes to coffee varieties, this is a Goliath Bourbon that most people have probably never even had the chance to taste. And as for the roaster, it’s none other than Zhan Coffee from Xiamen, which has long been in my personal Top 3 roasters. Beans roasted by Lao Zeng always carry a signature style: incredibly clean and precise. Clean to the point where you almost forget it’s a roasted product—there’s none of that typical “roasty” flavor. Instead, it’s crisp, refreshing, and effortlessly drinkable. Honestly, this is a blind-buy, no-regrets kind of coffee. As they say—Ferrari will always be Ferrari. Haha.

Today’s beans come from Finca Siberia in El Salvador. Despite the name, this “Siberia” isn’t about snow, but rather history—it’s a century-old estate dating back to the 1870s. The farm has been passed down through four generations of the Silva family and is a regular contender in the Cup of Excellence (COE), consistently earning top honors.

The name “Siberia” actually comes from the region’s early days, when transportation was difficult and the climate was unpredictable—harsh and remote, much like the real Siberia. Ironically, it’s precisely this challenging, ever-changing environment that makes it such an exceptional place for growing outstanding coffee.

Now let’s talk about the star of the show—Goliath Bourbon. If translated directly, it sounds like something out of mythology, and honestly, that’s not far off. It’s sometimes also called “Big Bourbon,” which is a bit more intuitive. This is a relatively new variety originating from El Salvador, known for its towering plants and unusually large coffee cherries.

Even after roasting, the beans themselves are noticeably massive—you can literally feel their size and density. They’re bold, full-bodied, and just… impressive. Haha.

Goliath Bourbon is a unique mutation, first discovered in 2015 at Finca Siberia by a farm technician who noticed ten unusually distinct coffee trees. Between 2016 and 2018, samples from these trees were sent to World Coffee Research in France for DNA analysis. The results showed that this is a Bourbon-derived variety—it carries Bourbon genetics, but isn’t a pure Bourbon strain.

The name “Goliath” reflects the plant’s massive size (true to its meaning of “giant”), while “Bourbon” highlights its genetic roots.

Botanically, Goliath Bourbon is easy to distinguish from standard Bourbon varieties. The trees are significantly taller, and their leaves are especially unique—some resemble typical Bourbon leaves, while others are even larger than those of Pacamara, a variety famous for its oversized leaves. The cherries themselves are also much larger than traditional Bourbon, firmly placing them in the “giant bean” category—hence the nickname “Big Bourbon.”

Flavor-wise, this variety is incredibly refined and expressive, with a personality all its own. Expect bold fruit-forward notes and a rich, juicy mouthfeel. When processed naturally, the fruitiness becomes even more pronounced—intense, vibrant, and highly vivid in character.

As of 2025, Goliath Bourbon has finally entered its first phase of large-scale production, making it a relatively “new arrival” in the coffee world. If you ever come across it, don’t hesitate—give it a try. It will absolutely surprise you.

To give you a sense of just how large these beans are, I even compared them to a Kenyan SL28 peaberry I had on hand—let’s just say… without comparison, there’s no damage. Haha. El Salvador’s Goliath Bourbon is bold, powerful, almost intimidating in appearance—yet surprisingly delicate and elegant in the cup.

Now, onto the tasting experience.

This particular lot is processed using the traditional natural method. The dry aroma after grinding is honestly shocking—in the best way possible. It’s overwhelmingly sweet, like pure honey. Intensely sugary, with explosive notes of floral nectar and tropical fruits. The sweetness is clean and pure, almost to the point where you feel like you could just eat the grounds straight.

At higher temperatures, the brewed cup starts off a bit flat—but give it a moment. As the temperature drops slightly, the acidity begins to shine, becoming bright and pleasantly lively.

The first thing that grabs your attention is the body—balanced, clean, and immediately engaging. You’ll notice citrus and white floral notes upfront, followed by a gentle, tea-like bitterness in the mid-to-late finish.

It’s genuinely delicious—so drinkable that you’ll find yourself finishing the cup in just a few sips.

What makes it truly special is this contrast: the dry aroma carries that signature sweet, fruity intensity of natural processing, yet the final cup delivers a clarity and cleanliness reminiscent of a washed coffee.

Thursday, March 5, 2026

Panama El Pergamino Yellow Bourbon Review | Anaerobic Washed vs Natural Coffee Flavor Comparison

 When it comes to sharing coffee reviews, I don’t just talk about different origins or individual estates. I also like approaching flavor from the perspective of varietals and processing methods. The more detailed your entry point into a tasting, the more layers of enjoyment you unlock. At best, I’m simply offering a starting point—some insights into bean selection and flavor references—so that next time you’re choosing coffee, you’ll pay a little closer attention to certain regions and producers.

Today’s feature, Panama’s El Pergamino Estate, is not appearing in my reviews for the first time. I previously shared their Geisha last year. As a well-recognized estate on the Best of Panama (BOP) list, it has long attracted serious coffee enthusiasts. But this time, I want to explore something a bit different: two Yellow Bourbon lots from the same estate, processed using two different anaerobic methods. Comparing their flavors gave me a deeper appreciation of El Pergamino. A prestigious estate truly lives up to its name.

“El Pergamino” is Spanish for “parchment,” referring to the thin yellow protective layer surrounding the coffee bean—the endocarp, composed of cellulose—that naturally remains after the outer fruit is removed. Located in the Cerro Punta region of Panama, specifically in the Bambito area at 1,960 meters above sea level, this estate produces some of the world’s rarest Geisha coffees. El Pergamino is operated by Spanish-Panamanian couple Janet Lucich and her husband. They originally cultivated potatoes, but since 2017, they have shifted their focus to growing Geisha and Yellow Bourbon.

Though El Pergamino is not a large estate, its coffees consistently express a refined elegance—small but beautiful. They often surprise you in subtle ways, creating distinct flavor memories. While the estate is known primarily for traditional processing methods, the two coffees I tasted this time—an anaerobic washed and an anaerobic natural—left me with one clear impression: anaerobic processing techniques have become increasingly mature and sophisticated. Today, they beautifully merge the cleanliness of washed coffees with the high sweetness of naturals. It’s something I genuinely love.

Both lots feature Yellow Bourbon, a varietal known for balanced acidity, pronounced sweetness, and a rounded mouthfeel. Flavor notes often include citrus, caramel, nuts, and chocolate in harmonious layers. If you tend to enjoy coffees that are gentle yet complex, this is a varietal worth paying attention to.

Let’s start with the anaerobic washed Yellow Bourbon. Its standout feature appears the moment you grind it. The dry aroma bursts with honeyed floral sweetness—an instant mood-lifter. There’s also a vivid red fruit character, reminiscent of juicy berries. Its aromatic intensity is captivating and confidently expressive.

Many people approach anaerobic coffees with caution during brewing, worrying they may be less forgiving. But this is where a great estate shines. Their processing amplifies flavor while thoughtful roasting ensures excellent brew tolerance. For both coffees, you can stick to your usual brewing routine without special adjustments. I recommend using a fast-flow filter paper and keeping total brew time between 1:30 and 1:40.

Once brewed, the wet aroma of the anaerobic washed reveals notes of peach and apricot juice—soft, inviting, and comforting. On the palate, the body is beautifully round and smooth. The sweetness is abundant, balanced by moderate acidity and citrus-like fruit notes, accompanied by hints of stone fruit complexity. The overall experience feels like a gentle breeze brushing across your face—elegant and understated. Before you know it, the cup is gone.

It’s exceptionally drinkable. In my brews, I kept the final brew ratio around 1:13, which produced a remarkably pleasant and mellow profile. The flavor structure is clear, with noticeable layers and progression from start to finish.

Now, turning to the anaerobic natural Yellow Bourbon. Simply grinding it reveals a fundamentally different aromatic focus. The dry fragrance carries the hallmark fermented tropical fruit character typical of anaerobic naturals—raspberry and pineapple stand out, with an impressively high sweetness.

Using nearly identical brewing parameters (again, a 1:13 ratio and about 1:37 brew time), I kept the process consistent to better highlight their differences. In the wet aroma, I detected plum-like notes along with jammy sweetness.

What surprised me most was that upon tasting, the fermented character virtually disappeared. That significantly elevated my expectations and appreciation. I can enjoy the richness and sweetness that anaerobic fermentation brings, but I don’t particularly like overt fermented flavors. This anaerobic natural retained its high sweetness while remaining remarkably clean and refreshing. The acidity was soft and approachable.

It’s sweet, vibrant, and simply delicious.

Monday, January 12, 2026

Colombia Inmaculada Natural Geisha Coffee Review | Terroir-Driven Specialty Coffee Experience

 When people talk about Colombian coffee these days, it no longer seems to be about how bright and clean its washed coffees are. Instead, the conversation often drifts toward all kinds of flashy, extreme processing methods. Sometimes it even feels exhausting to say the full word “Colombia,” and you just shorten it to “Colom,” as a quiet expression of mixed emotions—part regret, part resignation. But this is how things evolve. When one group relentlessly chases market demand and price premiums through aggressively engineered flavor profiles, there will inevitably be another group that chooses a different path: staying grounded in tradition and respecting terroir. And in today’s Colombia, producers like this feel especially precious—once you encounter them, you simply don’t want to miss them.

Inmaculada Estate is one such name. If you heard of it for the first time, chances are it was back in 2015, when Sasa Sestic won the World Barista Championship using Sudan Rume grown in collaboration with Inmaculada’s Las Nubes farm. Then in 2021, Diego Campos won the World Barista Championship in Milan with Inmaculada’s Eugeniodes, while Matt Winton also claimed the World Brewers Cup title with a blend featuring Eugeniodes and Ecuadorian coffee. From then on, Inmaculada became firmly etched into the global specialty coffee spotlight.

Inmaculada Estate is located in the Pichindé district of Cali, in Colombia’s Cauca region, nestled within the Andes at elevations ranging from 1,750 to 2,000 meters. Surrounded by Farallones de Cali National Natural Park, the estate cultivates a range of varieties including Geisha, Sudan Rume, Laurina (Pointu Bourbon), and Eugeniodes. It’s clear that rare and delicate varieties are a central focus here.

The estate’s development has been steady and deliberate. Founded by the Holguín family in 2010, it began with just five hectares of land—already planted with these uncommon varieties. In 2013, they acquired their second farm, Monserrat Estate (11 hectares), expanding plantings of Geisha, Sudan Rume, and Laurina. By 2015, after years of groundwork and Sasa’s championship win in Seattle, their Sudan Rume gained international recognition, and Las Nubes Farm (11.5 hectares) became widely known. In 2017, they added La Gloria Farm, with 4.5 hectares dedicated to Geisha, followed by the acquisition of Colegio La Inmaculada in 2018. At that point, Inmaculada and its associated farms had formed a complete, integrated system—one that focuses meticulously on every detail to ensure bean quality, supported by automated and professional post-harvest and processing facilities. Today, Inmaculada Estate encompasses 35 hectares of coffee cultivation across a total of 60 hectares of land.

On their official website, one sentence truly stayed with me:
“Since 2010, we have been committed to preserving the dignity of the coffee industry, respecting terroir, upholding professional standards, transforming regions, and connecting the world.”
At first glance, it sounds simple. But in the context of so many Colombian farms diving headfirst into experimental processing, the weight of those words feels heavier—and more valuable—than ever. Inmaculada places great importance on natural resources and sustainability, avoiding synthetic inputs to protect the ecosystem.

If you’ve shopped for Inmaculada coffees recently, you may have noticed the phrase “Fellows Farms Project,” also known as the “Chasing the Light” initiative. This program was launched in 2022 in collaboration with coffee growers from the Huila and Cauca regions. Through this project, Inmaculada pays premium prices for coffee cherries grown by local farmers. On one hand, it expands the cultivation of rare varieties; on the other, it recognizes and rewards the growers’ hard work during harvest. By offering higher compensation, the project actively improves farmers’ livelihoods while strengthening their agronomic and processing practices—ultimately ensuring higher-quality cherries and more distinctive flavor profiles.

A Journey Through Flavor

Recently, a friend gave me a small jar of Inmaculada Natural Geisha from Colombia. Even the dry aroma after grinding was instantly captivating—intensely sweet, with notes of fruity hard candy and the juiciness of fully ripe fruit. It was unmistakably tropical.

I brewed it using 15 grams of coffee (the jar held 45 grams total—perfect for three brews, and small formats like this help ensure you enjoy the coffee at its peak). Water temperature was 91°C, total brew time 1 minute 49 seconds (including a 20-second bloom), with 247 grams of water poured (a 1:16.4 brew ratio), yielding 214 grams in the cup (1:14.3 final ratio). I’ve always preferred slightly more concentrated pour-over recipes. This approach brings out a fuller body in the wet aroma, almost like fruit tea. In the cup, the profile leaned clearly toward floral and fruity notes, layered with a gentle hint of chocolate bitterness from the heavier body. Overall, it was beautifully balanced—soft acidity, bright citrus and berries, and a fruit-tea-like character that made the whole experience deeply comforting and enjoyable.

Friday, November 28, 2025

A Rare Cold-Washed Obata Coffee from Denmark’s POMA Lab

 A few days ago, I introduced the cold-wash processing method developed by POMA Lab in Denmark, and I mentioned that I’d soon share a flavor review of the beans they grow and roast themselves. This is actually the first time I’ve ever tasted coffee beans produced directly from a research lab. Since they are both the growers and the roasters, this batch definitely counts as a rare find—haha.

POMA is a coffee research and roasting company founded in Copenhagen in 2024. Their mission is to develop coffee production technologies that can be easily adopted by farmers around the world, helping address industry challenges and bridge the gap between research and real-world application. Their main research facility is a greenhouse on the Danish island of Funen, where they simulate different farm microclimates to observe, study, and adjust various coffee production methods.

They developed the POMA Cultivation System—a comprehensive set of best agricultural practices designed to unlock the full potential of both new and existing varieties while pushing coffee production toward greater systematization and standardization. The system combines cutting-edge scientific research with practical field-tested methods, making it not only innovative but also highly accessible to farmers.

Inside the greenhouse, they manipulate environmental factors using plant-growth simulation algorithms. This allows them to study how coffee trees respond to climate change while maintaining stable conditions to examine the effects of farming practices. Their experiments cover nearly every aspect of coffee cultivation, with a special focus on crop-load management, growth regulation, water and nutrient optimization, and understanding how climate affects coffee quality and plant physiology.

Currently, they’re studying widely cultivated varieties such as Bourbon, Typica, Pacamara, Catuai, Caturra, and Geisha, ensuring their work remains directly relevant to farmers. All research findings are openly available for validation in real-world production environments. Typically, it takes 8 to 12 years for a technique to go from initial lab work to becoming a tool farmers can reliably use. In a way, that timeline reflects a kind of dedicated, almost spiritual commitment.

So POMA isn’t just “doing experiments in a lab.” They also collaborate closely with farms, transferring their technology to real-world applications and helping solve practical production challenges to make sustainable practices more accessible and effective. Their current projects include soil nutrition, shading systems, crop-load management, controlled pollination, and microclimate studies.

The beans I purchased this time come directly from the POMA Research Station, grown in an environment engineered to simulate an altitude of around 1,000 meters. The variety itself is quite special—and it’s my first time trying it. It’s called Obata, a modern Arabica hybrid created by the Campinas Agronomic Institute (IAC) in Brazil. The variety is a cross between Timor Hybrid (which contains Robusta genes) and Villa Sarchi, giving it both disease resistance and specialty-coffee potential.

A bit about the parent varieties:
Timor Hybrid—often called “Tim Tim”—is itself a cross between Arabica and Robusta. The beans are huge and elongated, sometimes even nicknamed “Long Mandheling.” Thanks to its Robusta lineage, Tim Tim typically has low to medium acidity, a heavy body, and strong viscosity.
Villa Sarchi, on the other hand, is a natural Bourbon mutation from Costa Rica, known for its lively acidity and sweetness. So you can imagine: one parent leans deep and balanced, the other bright and sweet—a complementary pairing, haha.

The core of the cold-wash process is an initial 48-hour chill at 8°C. After that, the cherries are fully depulped and washed, then dried in a pressurized rotating dryer at temperatures below 10°C. This low-temperature environment forces yeast and the beans themselves into a dormant state, inhibiting fermentation. The goal is to preserve and amplify the coffee’s inherent aromas without introducing additional yeast or triggering active fermentation. Essentially, the process aims to showcase the purest, most natural expression of the coffee beans.

They even performed pre-roast GC-MS analysis on cold-washed green coffee. Using Caturra as an example, they found that key aromatic compounds were better preserved and enhanced compared to traditional washed processing.

Each batch from POMA comes in a paper box, and inside is a vacuum-sealed one-way-valve bag. Before opening, it feels hard like a brick—haha. Once opened, the beans don’t give off any particularly strong aroma, but you can immediately notice their size—likely thanks to the Tim Tim lineage. After grinding, the dry fragrance shows hints of cooked apple and a light touch of spice, but overall, the aroma is relatively subtle without any unpleasant notes.

I treated this coffee both as a daily drinker and a test subject for more controlled brewing parameters. Across several brews, its main characteristics became clear: the sweetness is strong and consistent throughout. Even though the flavor profile at higher temperatures feels somewhat muted, the sweetness remains steady. As the temperature drops, the acidity rises and becomes pleasantly citrus-like, with some sweetness reminiscent of red berries. However, if you brew it with a fast-drip method, it may reveal the same weakness as its dry aroma—its flavor structure is relatively short. There aren’t many layers to latch onto; its main strengths are sweetness, cleanliness, and a light, balanced cup profile.

Compared to traditional washed coffees, I find this one more approachable and much more forgiving across brewing methods. You’ll almost never get overly bright acidity—haha. Its sweetness and balance make it appealing to a wider range of drinkers.

As for the bean variety itself, neither Timor Hybrid nor Villa Sarchi is considered a “premium” or prestigious cultivar. Both have flavor limitations. The typical “wild” character of Timor is barely noticeable in this hybrid. Its balance and cleanliness make it feel more restrained, though at the cost of losing some of the distinctive traits associated with its lineage. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. If you’re seeking smooth mouthfeel and an easy-drinking profile, Obata is absolutely worth trying. But if you’re looking for layered complexity and strong flavor identity, it may leave you disappointed.