I’ve noticed that the more coffee I drink, the more I start paying attention to specific origins and roasters I’ve been thinking about for a long time. Even if I can’t just drop by their café in person, being able to “visit remotely” by brewing one of their coffees at home already feels incredibly satisfying.
In my mind, I seem to carry around a running list of these little “obsessions”—all the coffees I still want to try. And on that list sits a Canadian roaster called ROSSO Coffee Roasters. They have five cafés in Calgary and frequently appear in international competitions. I even crossed paths with them once at a coffee festival, but somehow always just missed the chance to actually taste their beans—until now. This time, I finally got to check that off my list.
ROSSO is definitely one of the more established roasters in Canada. Over the past 16 years, they’ve continuously challenged traditional coffee practices to develop their own approach. Interestingly, you won’t find much of a typical North American roasting signature in their coffees. Instead, their style leans more toward an Australian and Nordic influence—thoughtful, expressive, and often layered with subtle, delightful surprises.
The espresso blend I chose was their “Winter Limited” release from last year. I’ve talked before about seasonal blends (why there’s always an espresso called a “seasonal blend”), and this one aims to capture a sense of warmth and comfort during winter. It brings together cozy spice notes, bright chocolate, and caramel-toffee sweetness.
Many roasters draw inspiration from seasonal changes when creating blends, but the choice of origins and processing methods can vary significantly. Those differences are often what reveal a roaster’s true craftsmanship. What makes ROSSO particularly exciting to explore is how they weave something “unconventional” into familiar traditions—creating moments of surprise and appreciation in the cup. It really makes you feel like playing with coffee is a genuinely joyful experience.
One component of this blend is a natural-processed Yellow Bourbon from Minas Gerais, Brazil, produced by Hélcio Carneiro. He started working with coffee at just 15 years old on his mother’s farm, and by 1976 he was managing Fazenda Santa Lucia, a 740-hectare estate. Only a portion of the land is dedicated to coffee, with the rest used for crops like bananas and corn. Coffee is grown at elevations between 900 and 1,250 meters, primarily featuring Yellow Catuai and Yellow Bourbon.
The farm follows a “rest and recovery” approach—half of the coffee trees are pruned while the other half are left untouched. The pruned trees rest for the next harvest cycle, producing nothing during that period. This system maintains productivity at around 80–90 bags per hectare—roughly three times the yield of non-pruned systems—while also lowering costs and improving quality.
In the cup, this Brazilian component is exceptionally clean and structured, with notes of nuts and milk chocolate—not dark chocolate, but a softer, creamier profile, even hinting at peanut candy. Much of that comforting sweetness likely comes from this Brazilian base.
The second component is an anaerobic natural Red and Yellow Caturra from Tolima, Colombia, produced by the Bayter family at El Vergel Estate. Originally founded in 1995 as an avocado farm—once one of the country’s largest producers—they transitioned to coffee in 2006 after a crop crisis. They focus mainly on Castillo and Red/Yellow Caturra varieties.
Between 2014 and 2015, the farm earned Rainforest Alliance certification. By 2018, they had modernized significantly, incorporating both aerobic and anaerobic processing methods, along with silo storage. Today, the Bayter family is deeply involved in fermentation research, experimenting with new processes and cultivating over 28 varieties. They’re also recognized as one of the first farms in Colombia to develop advanced fermentation techniques.
This Colombian coffee essentially forms the backbone of the blend—from dry aroma to final cup profile. That rich, creamy sweetness and floral-fruity intensity you notice right after grinding comes largely from this component.
The final “hidden gem” in the blend is a washed heirloom coffee from Banko Chelchele in Ethiopia. Located in the Gedeo zone of southern Ethiopia, this region is renowned for producing some of the country’s most expressive coffees, thanks to its volcanic soil, high elevation, and ideal microclimate.
This Ethiopian component brings cohesion, extension, and fullness to the blend. In milk-based drinks especially, you can clearly sense its presence, contributing a classic Ethiopian citrus sweetness and a refined aromatic lift.
Right after grinding, the dry aroma is bursting with juicy berry sweetness, layered with tropical fruit and intense florals from the anaerobic process—along with a subtle creamy sweetness underneath. Once extracted as espresso, the crema is impressively rich and aromatic.
The first sip of espresso is surprisingly harmonious. Ethiopia, Colombia, and Brazil seem to reach a perfect balance—you experience a seamless interplay of acidity and sweetness from start to finish. The finish is remarkably clean, making the coffee incredibly approachable and enjoyable.
As for milk drinks—whether it’s a latte, a flat white, or even a dirty coffee—the flavor holds up beautifully. The standout impression is a vibrant espresso character, with notes of fruit candy, milk chocolate, and a sweetness so clean it almost resembles maple syrup. In a flat white, where the coffee ratio is slightly higher, citrus and honey notes become more pronounced, accompanied by hints of tropical fruit.
All in all, although this is a “winter limited” blend, its expression feels almost like summer—lively and radiant. The Brazilian natural Yellow Bourbon provides a smooth, nutty-sweet foundation. The Colombian anaerobic natural adds complexity and depth, bringing warm spice and fruit notes perfect for winter. Meanwhile, the Ethiopian washed heirloom contributes elegance, clarity, and floral-fruity brightness.
Every sip is deeply satisfying—and it’s especially well-suited for milk-based drinks during the colder season.
