Panama Finca Los Cenizos Catuai Review: Anaerobic Slow Dry Coffee with Exceptional Value

 Over the past few months, I’ve been sharing quite a few tasting notes on “non-Gesha” varieties from some of the world’s most renowned coffee estates. Personally, I see these coffees as the true “kings of value.” You get to experience the exceptional green bean processing expertise of these prestigious farms—without paying the premium price tag that Gesha typically commands—yet still enjoy a remarkably satisfying flavor experience.

Today, I want to introduce a coffee estate that’s making its first appearance in my reviews: Finca Los Cenizos in Panama.

This is also my first time tasting coffee from Finca Los Cenizos. Even though this particular lot is a Catuai processed using the ASD method, I was immediately captivated by its elegance and refined flavor profile. The farm is a family-owned operation located in the highlands of Cerro Punta—a stunning volcanic valley where sweet mountain spring water flows through the landscape, surrounded by rich biodiversity.

The growing conditions here are exceptional. The region benefits from a unique microclimate, and much of the coffee is cultivated under the shade of ash trees that are over a century old. These natural shade conditions play a crucial role in the farm’s cultivation practices—and are also the origin of its name, as “Cenizos” means “ash trees” in Spanish.

Situated at elevations between 1,800 and over 2,200 meters, the high altitude significantly slows down the coffee’s maturation process. This extended development allows the beans to build greater complexity and juiciness in the cup.

The current owner, Estela Pitti, is the first-generation female coffee producer in the Cerro Punta region. She grew up and studied in Boquete, and her family acquired Finca Los Cenizos in 2008. From a young age, she showed a strong passion for agriculture and production. Today, Estela works alongside her children, Stella Marie and Niko, continuing to pursue their shared vision: producing high-end, terroir-driven coffees that exist in harmony with nature while showcasing the unique character of Panama’s land.

The farm’s team is composed of 99% experienced growers from the local Ngäbe-Buglé community. With proper training, they are highly skilled in managing all aspects of specialty coffee cultivation. Since beginning agricultural operations in 2008, innovation has remained one of the farm’s top priorities. They continuously experiment with different processing methods, guided by a core belief: “Panama’s terroir speaks.” Each harvest is a dialogue with the land, and every cup is an interpretation of its voice.

Since 2019, Finca Los Cenizos has been a consistent standout at the Best of Panama (BOP) competition. In the most recent 2025 BOP, they achieved 2nd place in the Natural Gesha category (96.25 points) and 6th place in the Washed Gesha category (94.38 points). In addition, their Natural Catuai placed 6th (90.38 points) in the non-Gesha auction (multi-variety category). Earning placements across all three categories in a single year is an impressive accomplishment.

Now let’s talk about the processing method behind this coffee. In recent years, the ASD method has gained significant attention in the specialty coffee world and is now widely adopted by top-tier farms—especially in Panama.

ASD stands for Anaerobic Slow Dry. As the name suggests, the “slow” aspect refers to extending the drying time through precise temperature control. Typically, this involves around 120 hours of anaerobic fermentation, though the exact duration may vary slightly depending on the farm or specific lot—reflecting fine-tuned adjustments to the process.

By carefully controlling both fermentation time and drying speed, this method unlocks extraordinary flavor potential in the beans.

The process itself is both time-consuming and meticulous, consisting of two main stages. First, hand-picked fully ripe red cherries are placed whole into sealed stainless steel tanks. Carbon dioxide is introduced to displace oxygen, creating an anaerobic environment. In the absence of oxygen, enzymes and microorganisms inside the cherries undergo entirely different transformations compared to aerobic fermentation, producing a greater abundance of aromatic precursors—laying the foundation for a more complex final flavor.

After fermentation, the cherries are carefully transferred to African raised beds for slow drying. By controlling the thickness of the layers and the frequency of turning, moisture is allowed to evaporate gradually and evenly. This results in enhanced sweetness, along with a cleaner and rounder mouthfeel.

As for this particular coffee, the dry aroma after grinding is instantly captivating—notes of strawberry jam, melon, and a blend of tropical fruits come together in a rich, candy-like sweetness. It’s incredibly inviting.

From my experience, the optimal resting period is around 4 to 5 days after roasting. Brewing with 91°C (about 196°F) water and keeping the total brew time under 2 minutes, with a brew ratio of approximately 1:13, yields a beautifully expressive cup.

You’ll get a profile dominated by berry-like flavors. Even the wet aroma is already bursting with fruitiness. On the palate, the first sip at higher temperatures delivers a gentle acidity, blending berry and stone fruit characteristics into a harmonious sweet-tart balance.

This “80-hour anaerobic slow dry” Catuai is a coffee with remarkable clarity and character. It achieves a perfect balance between lively fruit expression and a full, rounded body. Most importantly, there’s no overwhelming fermented note—just a clean, smooth, and richly structured cup with a natural-process profile.

With every sip, you can truly feel what Finca Los Cenizos has infused into these “golden 80 hours”: their care, their labor, and the imprint of the land itself. Here, terroir isn’t just a backdrop—it’s the first voice, faithfully expressed in every mouthful.

Slow Coffee in Shanghai: A Hidden Café That Invites You to Take Your Time

 As one of China’s top-tier metropolitan cities, Shanghai, to me, is defined not only by its remarkable openness and cultural diversity, but also by one underlying force that fuels it all: speed.

It’s a city where even red lights make you want to hurry across the street. Time here is measured with precision—subways arrive every few minutes, food deliveries show up within minutes, emails are expected to be answered within minutes. Beneath the city’s glamour often lies a quiet sense of anxiety. Sometimes, when we step into a café, it’s not entirely for the coffee—it’s to catch our breath.

Maybe it’s the younger generation that understands this quiet helplessness the most. That’s why the phrase “Take your time in life” feels especially gentle. And it was exactly this kind of gentleness that moved me during my recent visit.

Tucked away at 222 Danshui Road in Shanghai’s Huangpu District is a café with a simple, memorable name: Buji Café Shop. Buji—which literally means “no rush”—echoes the message displayed right at the entrance: “Take your time in life.” In a city where “faster” has become a form of productivity, and coffee itself is often reduced to a functional caffeine fix, this place feels like a quiet act of resistance—an invitation to slow down and simply sit for a while.

I especially love the storefront of Buji. Paired with a bicycle overflowing with fresh flowers, it feels like a scene from an early spring outing—effortless and serene. I’m quite familiar with Danshui Road; over the years, I’ve visited many cafés here. The narrow, old streets carry a sense of local culture, along with the warmth of everyday life. If you truly take the time to experience Shanghai, you’ll find that beneath the fast-paced surface, there’s a softness capable of healing you. “Taking it slow” here isn’t about laziness or giving up—it’s more like being told: here, you’re allowed not to rush.

Right by the entrance sits a fish tank filled with tropical fish, catching the attention of nearly everyone who passes by. Some children gently tap on the glass to interact, others pause to watch, and some are drawn inside, ordering a coffee and quietly observing the fish glide freely through the water. In a way, this too feels like the perfect expression of “taking it slow.”

The café itself is compact, but the high ceiling makes it feel open and airy. There’s also a small loft upstairs—a cozy little nook you can claim as your own. If you’re looking for a quiet moment alone, the downstairs area feels like a sanctuary for the soul.

In a place like this, I prefer sitting at the bar. It gives me a reason to spend two minutes watching a shot of espresso slowly drip into the cup. I can zone out while staring at the fish tank—and I even noticed one particularly assertive fish claiming the best spot where the water temperature and oxygen levels are just right. A row of unfamiliar potted plants sits nearby, each quietly radiating resilience. In that moment, I realized this kind of “slowness” isn’t about procrastination—it’s about carving out a space for yourself within the city’s dense rhythm, a space that isn’t dictated by efficiency.

The café offers four house espresso beans, each with its own catchy name. After taking a closer look, I put together my own combination. The barista even complimented my order, saying it’s a favorite among many regulars—so I must’ve done something right, haha.

One of their single-origin espresso options, called “Orange Sea,” is a dark-roasted natural Ethiopian. Its dry aroma, enhanced by the deeper roast, carries hints of chocolate, but more prominently, notes of dried fruit. It holds onto the classic foundation of traditional espresso while adding layers of flavor complexity, making it a highly versatile bean.

I naturally chose it for a flat white. The result was smooth and well-balanced, with a rich sweetness. It turned out cleaner than I expected, filled with dried fruit notes—like red fruits transformed into fruit leather—along with a soft, rounded texture reminiscent of a creamy cake.

At that moment, the phrase “Take your time in life”—displayed above the bar—felt like more than just decoration. It seemed like a declaration of the owner’s philosophy toward extraction. Not every Ethiopian coffee needs to be lightly roasted to preserve floral notes. A darker roast, when done right, can bring out the richness of dried fruits and a creamy softness—an unexpected delight worth savoring slowly. And by allowing enough time for the coffee grounds and water to interact, you extract the bean’s most authentic flavors. This kind of “slowness” is a form of respect for the integrity of the coffee.

For contrast, I also chose a lighter, medium roast option—a Colombian washed coffee called “La Vie en Rose.” Its dry aroma carries a hint of tropical fruit. It works especially well as a black coffee, since an Americano allows the flavors to fully open up. You’ll taste a bright balance of fruity acidity and sweetness, followed by notes of caramel and a touch of chocolate toward the finish. Its layered profile evolves with each sip, offering a vivid, almost tangible sense of progression.

Talking about “taking it slow” in Shanghai is, in many ways, both a luxury and a form of romance. It’s not about giving up the hustle—it’s about knowing that when you’re tired, there’s a chair waiting for you; when it rains, there’s a warm cup of coffee ready. Life is long—it won’t be defined by the time it takes to enjoy one cup of coffee.

To me, the phrase on the storefront is also an invitation. To those who walk in, it says: there’s no rush here—you can sit all afternoon and leave whenever you’re ready. And to those just passing by: even if you don’t step inside, if that one sentence makes you pause for a second, brings a faint smile to your lips, or makes you quietly think, “Yeah… no need to rush,” then you’ve already formed a warm, subtle connection—with this café, and with the city itself.

Coffee Tasting Guide: 6 Specialty Coffee Beans from Panama, Colombia & Costa Rica

 “Coffee Tasting Banquet” is a kind of tasting experience created for coffee enthusiasts. For coffee shops, this format allows them to test market reactions and collect customer feedback through a sharing-based event. The concept itself provides an excellent setting for both tasting and discussion. At this particular event, they brought six outstanding beans from different origins. Taking advantage of this tasting session, I’d like to share some thoughts about these six coffee regions and the flavor characteristics of their beans.

The first bean comes from Roble Estate in Colombia. The farm reaches elevations of up to 1,800 meters and is located in the town of Pitalito in Huila. The owner, Dionel, named this coffee sanctuary after a century-old oak tree that inspired him. The estate places great emphasis on precision throughout the processing stage. After handpicking, the cherries undergo flotation to remove defects, followed by a second manual sorting to eliminate unripe fruit. Because the climate in Huila can change drastically, strict humidity control is required to quickly reduce moisture levels during processing. Additionally, the farm enforces strict no-smoking and no-eating policies during processing to ensure the cleanest possible environment and preserve the coffee’s purest flavor characteristics.

This particular bean is a Geisha from Roble Estate, processed with 36 hours of anaerobic dry fermentation followed by a honey process. Both the dry aroma after grinding and the wet aroma after brewing carry a refreshing, delicate floral-fruit profile that feels almost like a traditional washed coffee. Before the first sip even reaches the palate, there is an extended fragrance of gardenia. Then comes an incredibly clear note of green mandarin—specifically reminiscent of the flavor you get when pu-erh tea is stuffed into a small green citrus and steeped together. Honestly, it’s fantastic. That flavor memory feels quite sophisticated, and I absolutely love it.

The second bean is one I’ve been eager to try for a long time: coffee from Altieri Estate in Panama. I had heard its reputation for years but never had the chance to taste it—until now. Altieri Estate has been one of the big names in recent years. Over the past eleven years in the Best of Panama (BOP) competition, the estate has appeared on the leaderboard eleven times, which speaks volumes about its strength.

Altieri Estate is a family business founded in 2005 by Italian-American entrepreneur Eugene Altieri, who moved to Panama in 1973. Twenty years ago, Eugene purchased two farms in Boquete, though at the time the land’s potential for specialty coffee had not yet been realized. Today, his children continue the family legacy, working with professional teams to expand the Altieri Specialty Coffee brand. For the family, coffee is not merely a business—it’s a passion.

One particularly touching aspect of this farm is its human warmth. Instead of assigning cold numerical codes to the coffee plots, Eugene named each carefully planned parcel after one of his eleven grandchildren. If you browse their website, you can truly feel the warmth of a close-knit family. It makes the estate both memorable and unique.

What’s special about this bean is that it comes from a famous coffee estate but is not a Geisha variety. Instead, it’s a Catuai processed with 96 hours of dry fermentation followed by dark-room natural processing. In an era where many prestigious farms focus heavily on Geisha, tasting some of their more “ordinary” varieties can be refreshing. Not only are they often more cost-effective, but they also allow you to better appreciate the estate’s technical expertise—especially in processing.

As we know, Catuai is a reliable and balanced coffee variety. It may not deliver the explosive floral aroma and acidity of top-tier Geisha, but its stable quality, bright acidity, and comfortable sweetness make it a popular choice in everyday specialty coffee. If you’re looking for a coffee with a friendly profile and balanced sweetness and acidity, Catuai is rarely a wrong choice.

The dry aroma of this bean smells intensely sweet—like fruit candy—an aroma that instantly lifts your mood. After brewing, the coffee maintains impressive clarity and cleanliness. The flavor layers are somewhat short, and the detectable notes are fairly concentrated, but considering the extended fermentation time, achieving such cleanliness is already a safe and commendable result.

The third bean comes from Auromar Estate in Panama, a washed Green Tip Geisha. Auromar is another highly talked-about estate. I actually wrote a dedicated review about it previously because I really like this farm—starting with its name. Auromar is located in the Chiriquí province of northwestern Panama, in a valley on the western side of the Barú Volcano.

The estate covers 31 hectares, of which 16 hectares are preserved tropical rainforest. The remaining 15 hectares are planted with coffee trees, growing at elevations between 1,485 and 1,700 meters, while the overall farm sits between 1,700 and 1,775 meters above sea level. Tall shade trees are interplanted throughout the farm. With year-round temperatures ranging from 16°C to 25°C and annual rainfall around 3,500 mm, the conditions are ideal for coffee cultivation.

Interestingly, the dry fragrance of this bean doesn’t immediately feel like a typical washed profile. Instead, it gives a sense of density and structure, making you anticipate a fuller body after brewing. Once brewed, the first impression is a soft citrus note, which soon transitions into a white-tea-like texture accompanied by honeyed sweetness. The sweetness and cleanliness are both excellent, though the flavor intensity and layering feel somewhat subdued. The mouthfeel, however, is very round.

Sometimes people are contradictory about coffee. We often say flavor is everything—but honestly, I love great mouthfeel even more. A coffee that is clean, round, and silky can easily surpass flavor complexity in terms of enjoyment. When you drink something so smooth and pure, it’s almost impossible not to love it.

The fourth bean comes from Barbara Estate in Panama, an anaerobic natural Green Tip Geisha. This estate is another well-known farm in Panama’s Boquete region. Barbara Estate is owned by the Rogers family and jointly managed by Hunter Tedman and Linda Arauz.

The farm sits at elevations between 1,450 and 1,700 meters, with fertile volcanic soil, cool mountain climates, and a misty cloud-forest environment. These conditions allow the coffee cherries to ripen slowly, resulting in higher sweetness and more complex flavor development.

Barbara Estate is best known for its Geisha variety, admired for its floral aromas, tea-like elegance, and bright acidity. The farm uses various processing methods—washed, natural, and honey—to precisely showcase tropical fruit notes, bright acidity, and layered, clean flavors.

Currently, Barbara Estate operates three plantations: the Jaramillo plot in Boquete, the Treasure plot in Renacimiento, and the Wizard plot in Potrerillos. Over the years, the estate has achieved multiple strong placements in the Best of Panama competition, solidifying its reputation as a top-tier specialty coffee producer.

The dry aroma of this bean once again hits exactly the flavor profile I love: sweet floral and fruity notes. That gentle sweetness instantly brings joy. After brewing, I found its flavor layering more appealing than the previous bean, though their overall flavor outlines are somewhat similar despite very different processing methods. What stands out the most is the cleanliness—it’s almost absurdly clean. If the flavor progression becomes slightly more layered, this would be an easy “buy-with-eyes-closed” coffee for me.

Typically, a coffee tasting banquet starts with light and refreshing profiles and gradually moves toward heavier, more intense coffees. The last two beans felt more mysterious and delivered some rather unique experiences.

The fifth bean is a Geisha from Bandera Estate in Costa Rica, processed with Golden Honey. In recent years, Costa Rican coffees don’t seem to dominate conversations the way they once did. Regardless of how honey processing is executed, the flavor differences between levels sometimes feel less dramatic compared to the wave of experimental processing methods emerging from other origins. As a result, Costa Rica can occasionally feel a bit understated.

Bandera Estate is located in the Tarrazú region, one of Costa Rica’s most renowned coffee-growing areas, with elevations exceeding 1,900 meters. The exceptional terroir provides the foundation for great flavor, and Tarrazú frequently appears at the top of the Cup of Excellence (COE) rankings.

The owner, Diego, expanded Geisha production and introduced five different processing styles: fermented washed, golden honey, red honey, white honey, and fermented natural. His coffees are known for their extremely high fruit maturity, dense structure, rich compounds, and carefully controlled fermentation, resulting in remarkable cleanliness.

What intrigued me most was the processing term “Golden Honey.” What exactly does that mean? In reality, “Golden Honey” is not a globally standardized term. It’s more of a marketing-level name used by certain farms or mills. From the perspective of this particular coffee, it represents Bandera Estate’s refined and high-standard interpretation of the traditional honey process.

As we know, the essence of honey processing lies in carefully controlling the amount of mucilage retained, the turning frequency, and the drying conditions to achieve maximum cleanliness, sweetness, and complex fruit notes. You can think of “Golden Honey” as a finely calibrated point somewhere between Yellow Honey and Red Honey in the traditional processing spectrum—simply labeled by the farm owner to represent their ideal standard.

At the tasting event, this coffee might have been roasted quite recently. The first sip genuinely surprised me. The flavor had an unexpectedly savory dimension. Honestly, it was the first time I clearly perceived an umami-like note in coffee. Perhaps it had something to do with a delicate roasting threshold—I’m not entirely sure. After that initial surprise, the profile moved into yellow fruit notes and a brown sugar sweetness. The depth of flavor was actually quite good. Because of that unusual savory impression, it ended up being one of the coffees I remembered the most.

The final bean of the tasting was a Geisha from Janson Estate in Panama, processed with 48 hours of GP bag fermentation followed by natural drying. Janson Estate is another famous Panamanian coffee farm with over 70 years of coffee cultivation and processing history.

The estate is located west of Barú Volcano, benefiting from rich volcanic soil and natural spring water. The farm integrates its coffee fields with a 200-hectare private nature reserve, including lagoons and wetlands that provide habitats for numerous bird species and wildlife.

Janson Estate is operated by the first and second generations of the Janson family and has won multiple Best of Panama awards, which has attracted growing attention from coffee enthusiasts in recent years.

Among the six coffees, this one had the most intense flavor profile. Its dry aroma was incredibly sweet, while the brewed fragrance carried strong fermentation notes. The first sip delivered the classic complexity of tropical fruit typically associated with fermented processing methods.

What impressed me was that despite the extended fermentation and experimental processing, the brewed cup remained remarkably clean. The finish carried a beautiful sweetness. However, the pronounced fermentation character also gave me a strange feeling—I couldn’t help thinking that Janson had somehow “fallen from grace.” I remember earlier Janson coffees that once amazed me. Half jokingly, I even said it now tastes like it has “turned Colombian.”

From a commercial perspective, though, this coffee could serve as a great gateway coffee for beginners entering the world of advanced specialty processing methods. After all, the rising popularity of experimental processing is largely driven by market demand.

Still, I have to say—a coffee with such strong fermentation notes yet maintaining this level of cleanliness is genuinely impressive.

Kenyan Peaberry Coffee Review | Kindred Coffee Australia | Nyeri Washed SL28 SL34 Ruiru 11 Flavor Notes

 It’s been a long time since I last had a peaberry. So today, let’s brew a washed Kenya from Kindred Coffee in Australia.

As many of you know, I spent a month in Australia not long ago. During that time, my café visits led me to discover more outstanding local roasters. That “shop-within-a-shop” experience—where one café introduces you to another roaster, which leads you to yet another—felt like a chain of delightful discoveries. This particular bag was an unexpected find during my visit to Exchange in Adelaide. Later, I realized that Kindred collaborates with quite a few local cafés; you’ll often spot their beans neatly lined up on retail shelves. So today, through this tasting review, I’d also like to share a bit about the roaster behind it.

Australia is home to countless small-but-exceptional roasters. Regardless of their production scale, many of them rank among the world’s best in terms of green sourcing and roasting quality. Roasting, after all, is a process of revealing flavor, while terroir lays the foundation of a coffee’s character. In many ways, to drink coffee is to taste its origin. Micro-lots or lesser-known subregions—often hard to access back home—are abundantly available in Australia. That’s part of what makes café hopping there so exciting. If you ever visit, I highly recommend seeking out origins you’ve never tried before. You might stumble upon an unexpected flavor revelation.

Kindred Coffee was founded in 2019. While the brand itself is relatively young, its founders, Alex and David, have spent over 35 years working in and around specialty coffee. In the beginning, they roasted in shared spaces—what they fondly called being “nomadic roasters.” Today, they operate their own fully equipped roastery with two Probat machines (a P5 and a P12), along with a Kaffe Logic sample roaster. Kindred places strong emphasis on direct trade relationships, building long-term partnerships with both green coffee traders and coffee producers. These stable supply chains are essential to maintaining quality year-round. Every roast is tracked and documented to ensure consistency—a detail that speaks to their professionalism.

It had been far too long since I last drank Kenyan coffee—especially a peaberry. When I spotted this bag during my café visit, I ordered it without hesitation. The price was consistent both in partner cafés and on their online store. Compared to other roasters, Kindred’s beans are slightly more premium. This 250g bag cost 31 AUD (about 153 RMB). The coffee comes from Nyeri, one of Kenya’s most celebrated and respected coffee regions. Located on the southern and western slopes of Mount Kenya at elevations between 1,500 and 2,100 meters, Nyeri benefits from mineral-rich red volcanic soil, ample rainfall, and ideal temperatures—all of which contribute to its exceptional cup quality.

Even within such a renowned region, being able to taste coffee from a small, distinctive washing station highlights the depth of Australian roasters’ sourcing. This lot comes from the Nduma washing station, established in 1987 on the slopes of Mount Kenya. Nduma works with up to 665 members who supply ripe cherries. Farmers must adhere to strict harvesting standards, picking only fully ripe cherries and delivering them the same day for processing to prevent unwanted fermentation.

What’s even more impressive is the varietal composition: SL28, SL34, and Ruiru 11—arguably the backbone of Nyeri, if not all of Kenya.
SL28 is known for its signature blackcurrant acidity. It represents the classic Kenyan profile, achieving remarkable balance between acidity, sweetness, and body, with layered complexity and a long finish.
SL34 tends to be heavier and more syrupy than SL28, offering a rounder mouthfeel and slightly softer acidity, with pronounced sweetness.
Ruiru 11, a hybrid variety, is often more subdued in flavor. It contributes deeper, grounding notes—think wood, nuts, or grains. While less flamboyant, it enhances overall balance and drinkability.

When I opened the bag, I was immediately delighted by the sight of those perfectly round peaberries. True to the PB label, there were virtually no flat beans mixed in—clear evidence of careful sorting. Considering the premium paid for peaberries, this “what you see is what you get” quality control feels necessary and reassuring.

After grinding, the first aroma that rose from the dry grounds was blood orange—not just generic citrus, but a bright, juicy orange layered with high sweetness. Honey and floral notes followed, creating a dry fragrance that felt genuinely uplifting.

I brewed this coffee multiple times, generally using 15 grams of coffee with 228–237 grams of water, aiming for a brew ratio around 1:15. The final yield was about 185–200 grams, resulting in a beverage ratio between 1:12 and 1:13. Personally, I found that a slightly tighter beverage ratio produced better flavor concentration. That said, minor parameter adjustments didn’t dramatically change the profile. At its core, this is a classic Kenyan expression—citrus-forward with tropical sweetness—almost universally appealing.

The wet aroma revealed a blend of orange and plum, or perhaps more accurately, a gooseberry-like acidity. Beneath that brightness, there was a subtle, deeper bittersweet undertone. On the palate, citrus leads the way, but the acidity is notably gentle—the kind that feels refreshing rather than sharp. A full body combined with a juicy texture creates a smooth, pleasurable mouthfeel. The finish transitions into a sweet yet profound tone, carrying hints reminiscent of licorice-apricot and a tea-like bittersweetness. The progression is seamless, the flavor structure clearly defined, and the acidity clean and transparent.

This cup reminded me why Kenyan coffee remains timeless. Some origins impress with novelty; others endure because they are simply, undeniably good.

El Salvador Gesha Coffee Review｜CO₂ Macerated Honey Process from Finca Ethiopia

 When you think of El Salvador coffee, what flavor notes come to mind first? Honey, caramel, brown sugar? Chocolate—especially milk chocolate—toffee, nuts? Many people are drawn to El Salvador coffees for their balance, softness, and layered complexity, which is why they’re often described as a benchmark for Central American coffee.

If I had to summarize the core flavor profile of El Salvador coffee, I’d say it’s defined by a pronounced sweetness, gentle yet bright acidity, a rich and silky mouthfeel, and a satisfying sense of structure and depth.

Today’s coffee, however, adds another dimension to that familiar picture. It sharpens your perception of El Salvador’s terroir at a more granular, regional level—almost filling in details you didn’t realize were missing. This is a bean with a strong flavor memory, and it’s absolutely worth a stop on your “origin-exploration journey” through El Salvador’s micro-regions.

A great cup of El Salvador coffee rarely leans toward anything aggressively intense. Instead, it feels like an elegant lady or gentleman—balanced and refined, sweet and smooth, with soft, bright acidity layered over classic chocolate and nutty undertones, finishing clean and lingering.
Well-known regions in El Salvador include the Apaneca–Ilamatepec mountain range, Chalatenango, and the Santa Ana volcano area. This CO₂ macerated honey-processed Gesha from Finca Ethiopia comes from the Apaneca region, where elevations above 1,200 meters and dramatic day-night temperature swings lead to more concentrated flavors, finer acidity, and greater complexity.

You might be wondering about the name—Ethiopia? Is this El Salvador or Ethiopia? 😄
In fact, Finca Ethiopia is one of the flagship farms of Los Naranjos Café. Established in 2018, this 34.5-hectare farm was renamed as a tribute to coffee’s birthplace. Of the total land, only 13 hectares are cultivated, while the rest is preserved as native forest to protect local flora and fauna.
Located behind the Ilamatepec volcano, the farm benefits from mineral-rich volcanic soil and a climate ideal for coffee cultivation. All the coffee is shade-grown under native trees, which plays a key role in producing higher-quality beans.

A Coffee Journey

The beans I tasted came from Zhu Huan Coffee, an “old friend” I’ve collaborated with before. Though they’re still a relatively young roaster, I’ve watched their roasting style mature over time. Their single-dose packaging, in particular, has become increasingly refined. After several rounds of tasting and evaluation, what stood out to me was how clearly the roast expresses terroir while still leaving a memorable flavor impression—something I consider essential.

Once ground, the dry aroma bursts with intense floral and fruity notes—deep red florals, quite concentrated—along with hints of candied fruit and malt sugar. Single-dose packs usually come in at a little over 16 grams; I’ll often use one or two beans to purge the grinder, then brew with 15 grams.
My total brew time was about 1 minute 41 seconds. The wet aroma after brewing reminded me of gently simmered fruit—orange and cherry—like a light fruit broth.

On the palate, what surprised me most was the texture. Even at a final brew ratio of 1:13, the cup felt light and refreshing rather than heavy. The acidity was elegant and restrained, with notes of orange and a tea-like bitterness at the finish. As the temperature dropped slightly, the floral character became even more expressive, almost resembling the aroma of fresh rose pastry. That transitional layering of flavors is where this coffee really shines—and it’s quite lovely.

This tasting sparked a deeper interest in Finca Ethiopia for me. A closer look revealed that their Gesha is already well known for its bright, juicy, and exceptionally clean profile. The farm relies on manual weed control using tools like machetes to avoid chemical herbicides, conducts soil research to guide nutrient management, and implements erosion control and water-collection pits to protect groundwater.
Before harvest, cherries undergo careful sweetness testing to ensure only the best fruit is processed. Last year, the farm also placed 7th in the experimental processing category (anaerobic natural) at the Cup of Excellence, making it a producer—and a region—well worth watching for coffee lovers.

Gold Washed Coffee Explained: Lemongrass & Ginger Flavor Notes from Colombia Cauca

 In a gold washed coffee, I tasted unmistakable notes of lemongrass and ginger.

A few days ago, I shared a dedicated introduction to what gold washed processing is—a relatively new method that combines the strengths of both washed and natural processing. The first time I encountered a gold washed coffee was last November at the Shanghai Coffee Expo. At the booth of Direct Coffee from Kyoto, this particular coffee immediately caught my eye. That moment marked the beginning of a flavor experience that completely amazed me—one that has stayed with me ever since.

I placed an order for the beans on the spot. This coffee is a Gold Washed Red Bourbon from Popayán, Cauca, Colombia. The barista at the booth was also the roaster of this very coffee, and the way he presented its flavors was incredibly impressive. It was the first time I had ever tasted such distinctly clean and vivid lemongrass and ginger notes in a Colombian coffee built on an innovative twist of traditional processing methods. Ultra-clean, ultra-refreshing, and incredibly smooth. Today, I want to take some time to talk about this coffee in detail. If you ever come across beans from the same region, make sure you give them a try. From what I’ve researched, most of the production from this farm is exported to Japan and Australia.

Popayán is a city in southwestern Colombia, the capital and largest city of Cauca Department. The Cauca region itself is considered one of Colombia’s core coffee-growing areas. Before diving deeper into this coffee, it’s necessary to revisit the concept of gold washed processing and the Santuario Project that I mentioned previously. Santuario is a professional coffee producer and exporter with farms and processing facilities in Colombia, Costa Rica, Brazil, Mexico, Ethiopia, and El Salvador.

The founder of the Santuario Project, Camilo Merizalde, is also behind the Colombian farm where this coffee was produced. His journey into coffee is quite interesting—he originally worked as a financial trader with no background in the coffee industry. During visits to suppliers, he was often asked where to find high-quality Colombian coffee. After returning home to Colombia, he reached out to people working in coffee farming, and that’s how he gradually entered the world of specialty coffee.

“Santuario” means “sanctuary” in Spanish. Camilo envisioned creating a refuge and a dream farm in the Cauca mountains of Colombia. The farm mainly grows Bourbon varieties along with several others, at elevations ranging from 1,850 to 2,100 meters above sea level—nearly ideal conditions for coffee cultivation. The farm also operates a large-scale processing center. Their focus goes beyond simply improving coffee quality; they emphasize developing styles and techniques grounded in scientific processes, ensuring consistent quality year after year.

I also want to briefly talk about Direct Coffee, the roastery based in Kyoto. They don’t have an official brand website, nor is there an abundance of written information about them. However, their official Instagram account has around 11,000 followers, which is quite solid compared to many overseas independent roasters I’ve come across. Judging from this particular coffee, you can get a sense of their roasting philosophy. They use a Diedrich roaster—one of my personal favorite brands.

Diedrich roasters are best known for their infrared heating systems. This technology transfers energy directly through infrared radiation, efficiently delivering heat to the drum and the bean surface while minimizing heat loss to the surrounding air. More importantly, this roasting method helps preserve complexity and sweetness in the coffee. Infrared heat reduces the risk of scorching the bean surface and allows for more even internal and external development. That’s exactly why the coffees they roast have such clean, clearly defined flavor profiles. They place strong emphasis on expressing terroir and highlighting sweetness. When you drink their coffee, you can clearly sense its cleanliness, pronounced sweetness, and a gentle yet gradually bright acidity, with a well-structured and layered overall profile.

As soon as you open the bag, you’re greeted by an intense lemongrass aroma. Honestly, smelling something like this in winter feels like spring blooming inside your heart. Within that strong lemongrass aroma, there’s a hint of ginger lingering in the finish—not the sharp, spicy note of aged ginger, but a fresh, uplifting sweetness reminiscent of young ginger. It’s truly unique. Once ground, these aromas become even more intense and expressive.

I brewed this coffee using two different setups. The first was a V60 Drip-Assist (Smart Dripper) used purely as a V60 cone, just like the barista did at the expo. The valve was kept open throughout, with no immersion involved. The pouring focused on a small central area, mostly using a single continuous pour. I used 92°C water (Nongfu Spring), a brew ratio of about 1:16, and a total brew time of around 1 minute and 55 seconds, including a 20-second bloom. In the V60, the citrus notes really stood out, with acidity that was extremely gentle yet bright. It was a genuinely pleasant sensory experience. The highlight, though, was the mouthfeel—exceptionally smooth and round, almost rolling across the tongue. It felt refined and elegant.

The second method I used was a three-hole flat-bottom dripper paired with Læsseyr filter paper, a setup I’ve been using quite often recently. With this dripper, I usually go for a slightly tighter ratio—around 1:15. Using 15 grams of coffee and yielding about 198 grams of brewed coffee results in an effective ratio closer to 1:13. This slightly higher concentration brings out a richer sweetness, which is exactly what I was aiming for. In the flat-bottom dripper, the flavors came through more boldly: bright lemon and citrus notes, paired with a delicate ginger aroma. The smooth, rounded texture was consistently satisfying in every cup. It’s the kind of coffee that makes you finish it almost without realizing it—pure comfort, like a gentle massage for your taste buds.

Why Coffee Shops Serve Flavor Cards | Coffee Tasting Notes & Third Wave Coffee Culture

 If you enjoy café hopping, you’ve probably noticed this: when you order a coffee—whether it’s espresso-based or pour-over—the barista often serves it with a small card. This card usually lists details such as the coffee’s origin, processing method, varietal, roast level, and even the story behind the region. It’s almost like an “ID card” for the coffee bean, giving you a clearer picture of what you’re actually drinking.

Sometimes, when I’m sitting in a café, I pay attention to whether other guests read these cards—or whether they take them with them when they leave. Unfortunately, most of the time, people barely notice them. Some glance at them briefly and then set them aside; almost no one takes them home. Maybe it’s because I’m a bit of an “origin nerd,” but I always want to learn as much as possible about the coffee in my cup. Occasionally, some cafés—especially when it comes to espresso—don’t disclose much information. In those cases, I’ll taste the coffee first, form my own conclusions, and then chat with the barista. If my guesses turn out to be right, it’s genuinely exciting. It feels like proof that my palate is getting sharper, and that kind of interaction is incredibly fun.

More than a decade ago, when I first started exploring cafés, I loved collecting business cards. These days, most cafés don’t bother printing them anymore, so I’ve started keeping flavor cards instead. If you look closely, many of these cards are beautifully designed and clearly made with care—the cost per card is not low at all. Taking one home as a keepsake also feels like a small gesture of respect toward the café. That’s what inspired me to write this article: why are so many cafés willing to invest in this kind of “silent conversation”? And what’s the story behind coffee flavor cards in the first place? Let’s dive in.

Since the rise of the third-wave specialty coffee movement, one core value in coffee culture has become especially important: communication and education. These days, many café owners shy away from the word “education,” as it can sound a bit preachy or condescending. But in reality, it’s a fairly neutral concept. It’s not about telling customers what they must do. As consumers, if we’re only paying for coffee to satisfy a basic craving, that feels like a missed opportunity. If we’re willing to explore the deeper culture and meaning behind it, coffee—and life—can take on much richer colors.

Flavor cards didn’t appear out of nowhere. During the second-wave coffee era, represented by brands like Starbucks, most people were drinking dark-roasted commercial coffee. The flavor profiles were largely limited to bitterness, smokiness, and chocolatey notes—fairly one-dimensional. With the third wave, however, professionals and enthusiasts began focusing on origin flavors. Different regions, varietals, and processing methods produce dramatically different profiles: floral aromas, bright fruit acidity, tea-like textures, and more. The challenge then became how to describe and communicate these complex, nuanced flavors to consumers. Simple phrases like “tastes good” or “smells great” were no longer enough. More precise language was needed.

So where do the flavor descriptions on these cards come from? And what logic do they follow? The answer lies in cupping and the flavor wheel. Cupping is the industry-standard method for systematically evaluating coffee quality. In simple terms, it involves forcefully slurping coffee with a cupping spoon so the liquid spreads across the entire palate. Throughout the process, tasters record details such as dry aroma, wet aroma, flavor, acidity, body, and aftertaste. The flavor wheel, meanwhile, was created to standardize tasting language. It organizes a wide range of aromas and flavors—from negative to positive—into a structured system. In this sense, the flavor card you receive is a simplified, practical, and personalized version of the flavor wheel. Café owners distill cupping results and flavor-wheel terminology into a small, easy-to-understand card, often using familiar, everyday flavor references to help you immerse yourself more deeply in the experience.

Why, then, are cafés willing to spend the time and money to create a specific flavor card for each coffee? One major reason is to build a bridge of communication and lower the barrier to choice. For people unfamiliar with origins and terroir, talking purely about regions and varietals can sound abstract and confusing. But words like “jasmine,” “lemon,” or “peach” immediately create a clear, intuitive image of what the coffee might taste like. Flavor cards also invite personal participation. For more advanced coffee lovers, I actually recommend tasting the coffee before looking at the card. Try to identify the flavors on your own, then check the card and see how closely your impressions match. You can even discuss it with the barista—this back-and-forth is part of the fun.

Many cafés roast their own beans, and some even source coffee directly from origin. These cafés often embrace professionalism and transparency. Using flavor cards, they share stories about the growing regions, explain the characteristics of specific varietals, and sometimes even disclose roasting curves and color values for the bean’s surface and core. In this sense, the flavor card becomes a “knowledge card,” offering as much information as possible so you truly understand what’s in your cup.

As I mentioned at the beginning, there’s also a reason cafés no longer print traditional business cards: flavor cards now serve both branding and marketing purposes. A well-designed card is a powerful branding tool, featuring the café’s logo, roast date, and origin story, all of which strengthen brand recognition. For collectors like me, this only deepens that connection. So next time you receive a flavor card at a café, think of it as the “identity code” to your coffee. Follow its guidance and embark on a small sensory adventure—and if the café allows it, don’t forget to take it home with you.