Panama Finca Los Cenizos Catuai Review: Anaerobic Slow Dry Coffee with Exceptional Value

 Over the past few months, I’ve been sharing quite a few tasting notes on “non-Gesha” varieties from some of the world’s most renowned coffee estates. Personally, I see these coffees as the true “kings of value.” You get to experience the exceptional green bean processing expertise of these prestigious farms—without paying the premium price tag that Gesha typically commands—yet still enjoy a remarkably satisfying flavor experience.

Today, I want to introduce a coffee estate that’s making its first appearance in my reviews: Finca Los Cenizos in Panama.

This is also my first time tasting coffee from Finca Los Cenizos. Even though this particular lot is a Catuai processed using the ASD method, I was immediately captivated by its elegance and refined flavor profile. The farm is a family-owned operation located in the highlands of Cerro Punta—a stunning volcanic valley where sweet mountain spring water flows through the landscape, surrounded by rich biodiversity.

The growing conditions here are exceptional. The region benefits from a unique microclimate, and much of the coffee is cultivated under the shade of ash trees that are over a century old. These natural shade conditions play a crucial role in the farm’s cultivation practices—and are also the origin of its name, as “Cenizos” means “ash trees” in Spanish.

Situated at elevations between 1,800 and over 2,200 meters, the high altitude significantly slows down the coffee’s maturation process. This extended development allows the beans to build greater complexity and juiciness in the cup.

The current owner, Estela Pitti, is the first-generation female coffee producer in the Cerro Punta region. She grew up and studied in Boquete, and her family acquired Finca Los Cenizos in 2008. From a young age, she showed a strong passion for agriculture and production. Today, Estela works alongside her children, Stella Marie and Niko, continuing to pursue their shared vision: producing high-end, terroir-driven coffees that exist in harmony with nature while showcasing the unique character of Panama’s land.

The farm’s team is composed of 99% experienced growers from the local Ngäbe-Buglé community. With proper training, they are highly skilled in managing all aspects of specialty coffee cultivation. Since beginning agricultural operations in 2008, innovation has remained one of the farm’s top priorities. They continuously experiment with different processing methods, guided by a core belief: “Panama’s terroir speaks.” Each harvest is a dialogue with the land, and every cup is an interpretation of its voice.

Since 2019, Finca Los Cenizos has been a consistent standout at the Best of Panama (BOP) competition. In the most recent 2025 BOP, they achieved 2nd place in the Natural Gesha category (96.25 points) and 6th place in the Washed Gesha category (94.38 points). In addition, their Natural Catuai placed 6th (90.38 points) in the non-Gesha auction (multi-variety category). Earning placements across all three categories in a single year is an impressive accomplishment.

Now let’s talk about the processing method behind this coffee. In recent years, the ASD method has gained significant attention in the specialty coffee world and is now widely adopted by top-tier farms—especially in Panama.

ASD stands for Anaerobic Slow Dry. As the name suggests, the “slow” aspect refers to extending the drying time through precise temperature control. Typically, this involves around 120 hours of anaerobic fermentation, though the exact duration may vary slightly depending on the farm or specific lot—reflecting fine-tuned adjustments to the process.

By carefully controlling both fermentation time and drying speed, this method unlocks extraordinary flavor potential in the beans.

The process itself is both time-consuming and meticulous, consisting of two main stages. First, hand-picked fully ripe red cherries are placed whole into sealed stainless steel tanks. Carbon dioxide is introduced to displace oxygen, creating an anaerobic environment. In the absence of oxygen, enzymes and microorganisms inside the cherries undergo entirely different transformations compared to aerobic fermentation, producing a greater abundance of aromatic precursors—laying the foundation for a more complex final flavor.

After fermentation, the cherries are carefully transferred to African raised beds for slow drying. By controlling the thickness of the layers and the frequency of turning, moisture is allowed to evaporate gradually and evenly. This results in enhanced sweetness, along with a cleaner and rounder mouthfeel.

As for this particular coffee, the dry aroma after grinding is instantly captivating—notes of strawberry jam, melon, and a blend of tropical fruits come together in a rich, candy-like sweetness. It’s incredibly inviting.

From my experience, the optimal resting period is around 4 to 5 days after roasting. Brewing with 91°C (about 196°F) water and keeping the total brew time under 2 minutes, with a brew ratio of approximately 1:13, yields a beautifully expressive cup.

You’ll get a profile dominated by berry-like flavors. Even the wet aroma is already bursting with fruitiness. On the palate, the first sip at higher temperatures delivers a gentle acidity, blending berry and stone fruit characteristics into a harmonious sweet-tart balance.

This “80-hour anaerobic slow dry” Catuai is a coffee with remarkable clarity and character. It achieves a perfect balance between lively fruit expression and a full, rounded body. Most importantly, there’s no overwhelming fermented note—just a clean, smooth, and richly structured cup with a natural-process profile.

With every sip, you can truly feel what Finca Los Cenizos has infused into these “golden 80 hours”: their care, their labor, and the imprint of the land itself. Here, terroir isn’t just a backdrop—it’s the first voice, faithfully expressed in every mouthful.

From Estate to Producer: The Rise of Fidel Huancas and Peruvian Specialty Coffee

 For those of you who love “bean hunting” as much as I do, you may have noticed an interesting shift: many coffees are no longer defined primarily by the name of an estate, but instead by the individual producer behind them. One producer who left a particularly strong impression on me—and remains one of my favorites—is Pepe Jijón from Ecuador. I’ve previously written about his unique Wave Washed Geisha processing method, along with a detailed profile and tasting notes of his coffees.

This shift reveals something deeper within the specialty coffee industry. It marks a transition from emphasizing the “estate” to recognizing the “producer.” In a sense, the pursuit of terroir has evolved into a respect for human value.

Traditionally, a well-known estate signified excellent terroir, mature farming practices, and reliable processing capabilities. It served as a guarantee of quality and consistency—consumers trusted that any coffee from that estate would meet a certain standard. But as specialty coffee has matured, people have begun to realize that even within a single estate, different plots can produce dramatically different flavor profiles. Labeling all of them under one estate name can actually blur their individuality.

What truly determines the quality of coffee is the decisions and craftsmanship of the people involved—the growers, pickers, and processors. The estate is merely the stage; people are the soul.

You can see this clearly in high-end coffee competitions. Award lists now often highlight not just the estate, but also the producer’s name. When a smallholder farmer wins a top prize at the Cup of Excellence, their name becomes synonymous with quality. Emphasizing the producer is also a natural outcome of the specialty coffee industry’s push for traceability. Consumers want to know who grew their coffee. This recognition allows producers to receive the credit—and compensation—they deserve, while also enabling direct trade relationships.

In many cases, the producer’s name has become a more precise indicator of both quality and flavor. That’s why so many coffees today are marketed under the producer’s name rather than the estate.

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Today, I want to talk about Peru as a coffee origin.

To be honest, Peru has always carried a bit of a “potential risk” in my mind. It doesn’t shine as brightly as neighboring countries like Brazil or Colombia. But when you come across a truly good Peruvian coffee, you’ll find a beautifully balanced and elegant cup.

Coffee production in Peru is dominated by smallholder farmers, most of whom cultivate less than two hectares of land. Due to economic constraints, many farmers cannot afford chemical fertilizers or pesticides—ironically making Peru a stronghold for organic cultivation. Around 70% of the country’s production is Typica, with smaller amounts of Caturra, Bourbon, Pache, and Geisha. Washed processing is the dominant method, resulting in clean cups with bright acidity.

Overall, Peruvian coffees may not be explosively vibrant at first sip, but the more you taste, the more you realize they have everything they need. There’s an understated elegance—refined acidity paired with a full, satisfying sweetness that reflects the terroir of the Andes. In higher-altitude regions especially, the flavor complexity becomes more pronounced, often revealing floral notes, tropical fruits, and melon-like sweetness. For many coffee enthusiasts, Peru is a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered.

Today’s coffee comes from Assembly Coffee in London, featuring beans produced by Fidel Huancas from Peru. Through this coffee, I’d like to share both his story and the flavor profile it delivers.

Fidel Huancas is a third-generation coffee producer from the Chirinos district in Cajamarca, Peru. He manages a 1.5-hectare farm called La Esperanza—“Hope”—a name that reflects his aspiration to produce exceptional coffee and become one of the region’s top producers. The coffee I’m discussing today comes from this very farm.

After graduating from high school in 2004, Fidel began his journey as a coffee producer, inheriting land from his father. By the age of 21, he had started his own family and, through hard work, purchased an additional two hectares of land. In 2017, he traveled to Costa Rica for an internship, where he learned new agricultural techniques that he later implemented on his farm with great success.

His dedication, passion, and attention to detail have driven significant progress in his coffee production. Like many farmers in the region, he represents a new generation of producers elevating coffee quality—supported by progressive cooperatives and local export organizations.

I noticed that his newer farm, Aroma del Corazón (purchased in 2022), ranked 21st in the 2024 Cup of Excellence Peru competition. Located at 1,900 meters above sea level, it shares a similar high-altitude environment with his original La Esperanza farm at around 1,950 meters. Clearly, his coffees are rooted in high-elevation terroir.

Over the past two decades, Fidel has relentlessly pursued quality, earning recognition along the way. Coffee has allowed him to provide a better life for his family, including funding the education of his three children. He is personally involved in every step of production—from hand-picking ripe cherries to overseeing processing at his farm’s washing station.

His process begins with careful hand selection, followed by flotation to remove defective cherries and debris. The beans are then fermented in small tanks, thoroughly washed to remove mucilage, and dried under controlled conditions. This meticulous washed process results in a clean, crisp, and juicy flavor profile.

The coffee I tasted is a blend of Caturra and Pache—two varieties commonly grown in Peru. Both are Arabica cultivars originating from Central and South America. Caturra, a natural mutation of Bourbon, is known for its high yield and adaptability, while Pache, a mutation of Typica, is prized for its exceptional flavor potential.

Together, they create a cup with bright acidity—often reminiscent of citrus and lemon—balanced by notes of nuts and chocolate. The overall profile is elegant and complex, with a rich mouthfeel. Caturra brings liveliness and structure, while Pache contributes a more subtle, refined sweetness. If Caturra is the expressive performer, Pache is the quiet master—less productive, but deeply captivating for those who appreciate its nuance.

As for the roaster, Assembly Coffee was born from the idea of “collective intelligence.” Back in 2014, a small team from Volcano Coffee Works gathered leading independent café and restaurant owners across the UK to explore a key question: how can a roaster best serve its role within the specialty coffee value chain?

After six months of in-depth discussions, they developed a blueprint for a customer-focused, innovative, and flexible roasting company—thus, Assembly was born.

Assembly Coffee represents the cutting edge of London’s specialty coffee scene. One line from their website stood out to me:

“The roastery would only source coffees that met the needs of its customers and never for its own gratification.”

Their roasting style reflects this philosophy. They favor light to medium roasts, aiming to precisely highlight origin characteristics, processing nuances, elegant acidity, and natural sweetness—rather than creating flavor through roast level.

If you ever visit London, I highly recommend stopping by their Brixton headquarters, housed in a converted 19th-century fire station. You’ll also find their beans served in many of the city’s top cafés.

As for the cup itself—

The dry aroma immediately reminded me of dried apricot, accompanied by subtle white floral notes. The overall fragrance is balanced, gently sweet, and very comforting.

After brewing, the flavor opens up into notes of stewed fruit, warm baking spices, and the juicy sweetness of blood orange. The wet aroma especially evokes something like a “fruit soup”—that slightly cooked, lightly oxidized fruit character. The profile leans bright yet structured, with a juicy texture and layered fruit aromatics.

To be honest, finding a Peruvian coffee at this level of flavor is already something special.

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As I sat at home in Hangzhou, sipping this coffee roasted in London and grown by Fidel Huancas in Peru, I couldn’t help but feel that this kind of “global movement” is one of coffee’s most romantic expressions.

Coffee producers embody both human skill and spirit. They represent real individuals, families, and the result of hard work and accumulated wisdom. In today’s era of smallholder farming and refined processing, they have become the true core of both quality and storytelling.

When a coffee is named after its producer, it sends a clear message: this is not just a product of a place—it is the work of a real person, someone who has poured their life into it.

And that is something worth respecting—and appreciating.

Guangxi Coffee Explained: China’s Emerging High-Altitude Coffee Origin Beyond Yunnan

 Not long ago, while scrolling through Weibo, I came across a post saying that Guangxi has started growing its own coffee. That immediately caught my attention and genuinely surprised me. Curious, I decided to dig deeper and share what I found with you.

From a coffee perspective, China is actually a rather unique country. It has a complete coffee supply chain—from cultivation and roasting to distribution and consumption. China is both a coffee-producing nation and a coffee-consuming one. When people talk about Chinese coffee, Yunnan naturally comes to mind as the most well-known producing region. Over the past few years, we’ve all witnessed the remarkable transformation of Yunnan coffee. It has moved from being primarily bulk-purchased for instant coffee to embracing a mature specialty coffee path. Today, even traditionally processed Yunnan Catimor can offer a clean and pleasant cup profile, and varieties like Yunnan Geisha have also emerged, bringing greater diversity. These achievements truly feel like a point of pride.

But China’s vast territory means that Yunnan isn’t the only place where coffee can grow. As early as last year, I talked about Tibetan coffee, the only coffee variety that originated in China. It is mainly found in Motuo County, Tibet, and is known for its exceptional cold resistance. Unlike Arabica, Robusta, or Liberica, Tibetan coffee does not belong to any of the three major coffee species—it is a completely independent variety. Within China, it can only be found in Motuo, while outside the country it also grows in parts of northeastern India. The reason Tibetan coffee rarely comes up in discussions is that it is listed as Endangered (EN) on the IUCN Red List, which has greatly limited its cultivation and visibility.

So aside from Yunnan, where else in China can coffee be grown at a commercially viable scale? The answer is Guangxi.

Coffee cultivation in western Guangxi—specifically in Xilin County—is no coincidence. Multiple factors have come together to make it possible. Today, you can already find Guangxi-grown coffee beans being sold online, most of them sourced from the Xilin area. This region benefits from a microclimate and soil conditions similar to those found in the world’s major coffee-growing belt.

Coffee is a tropical crop with strict environmental requirements and is typically grown within the “Coffee Belt” between 25° north and south latitude. Although Guangxi as a whole sits at a relatively higher latitude (approximately 20°54′–26°24′ N), certain areas still meet the conditions needed for coffee cultivation. Coffee trees grow best at temperatures between 15–24°C. Xilin County, located at the westernmost edge of Guangxi and bordering Yunnan and Guizhou, lies close to China’s core coffee-producing region. It has a subtropical monsoon climate, but thanks to its higher elevation, it also shares characteristics of plateau and mountainous terrain. The average annual temperature is around 19°C, making the climate mild and stable.

Most of Xilin County is mountainous, with an average elevation of about 1,300 meters—well within the “golden elevation range” for high-quality Arabica coffee.

Another crucial factor is rainfall. Coffee requires ample water, and Guangxi is known for its abundant precipitation, more than enough to support coffee growth. Combined with the region’s high-altitude slopes, this creates a microclimate with significant day-night temperature differences. Such conditions help coffee cherries accumulate more sugars and flavor compounds, ultimately improving bean quality. Soil also plays a key role. Coffee thrives in fertile, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. This is why many premium coffee regions are located on volcanic soil. While much of Guangxi consists of acidic red soil, it can be effectively improved, making it well suited for coffee cultivation.

Xilin also benefits greatly from its proximity to Yunnan. The two regions share similar latitudes and enjoy the climatic advantages brought by higher elevations. In addition, Xilin can readily learn from Yunnan’s mature experience in variety selection, farm management, and processing techniques, avoiding many unnecessary detours. Industrial development in Xilin has been limited, and the ecological environment remains well preserved, with high forest coverage. This allows coffee trees to grow in a clean, natural setting, aligning perfectly with modern consumers’ demand for green and organic agricultural products.

At present, the main variety grown in Xilin is Catimor, which is also the only commercially available Guangxi coffee I’ve seen online so far. Catimor is a dominant variety in Yunnan as well, valued for its strong disease resistance, stable yields, and reliable flavor performance—making it an ideal choice for an emerging origin. That said, there are still relatively few sellers offering Guangxi coffee, and it’s clear that the region is still in the early stages of flavor exploration. Currently, the profile tends to feature nutty and cocoa-like notes, with medium body and a smooth mouthfeel—very much an everyday, approachable coffee. Still, given its geographical advantages, Guangxi clearly holds the potential to develop more complex, specialty-grade flavor profiles in the future.