Haw Side Coffee Shanghai Review: A Hidden Gem Near Shanghai Stadium with Exceptional Specialty Coffee

 Over the past year, I’ve realized that when I come to Shanghai, it’s no longer specifically for café hopping—it’s more about catching a live show, with a café visit along the way. Sometimes, that sense of ease in life comes from something unplanned. Compared to my earlier days—when I would hit six cafés in one day and drink up to eight cups of coffee—these days I’ve become much more go-with-the-flow.

The cafés I choose now reflect a more open mindset. They’ve become little “annotations” to my everyday life. Just like the one I want to talk about today: Haw Side Coffee, located at No. 2031-4, Zhongshan South 2nd Road in Xuhui District. Visiting it felt like one of those “meant-to-be detours.”

By “meant to be,” I mean this café had been sitting in my saved list for quite a while. And by “detour,” I mean my main reason for coming to Shanghai was to attend a concert by the American rock band Imagine Dragons—and this café just happens to be right next to Shanghai Stadium. So before the show, I grabbed a coffee here, then went off to enjoy an electrifying night. Honestly, the plan worked out perfectly—effortless and practical. If you ever come here for a concert, I’d definitely recommend stopping by Haw Side for a cup first.

As for the location, Haw Side is honestly a bit tucked away. There’s no obvious signage, and it’s partially hidden behind a planter near an elevated roadway, making it easy to miss. But for someone like me—who’s visited countless cafés—I’ve seen all kinds of unusual locations. A “destination café” like this really has only one way to win people over: exceptional coffee.

You can see the entire café from outside. The space is extremely limited, with room for maybe eight people at most. Inside, it has a triangular layout, which feels a bit unique. Still, you can tell that every inch has been thoughtfully designed—prioritizing functionality while still offering a bit of comfort for seated guests. As the saying goes, “small but complete.” And honestly, if it ever feels a little cramped, just take a sip of your coffee—you’ll instantly feel more at ease. Trust me.

I visited on a weekday afternoon. It wasn’t peak hours, yet the seats were almost fully occupied. A steady flow of coffee lovers came and went—staying, chatting, and exploring flavors. That’s the magic of a café. While Haw Side’s physical space is small, its spirit feels abundant. Their bean lineup is impressive: the house beans are all solid classics, and they also offer pour-over options from various guest roasters. I imagine every visit here could turn into a completely different flavor journey.

When I visited, their espresso offerings immediately caught my attention. They exclusively use single-origin espresso (SOE), and the flavor profiles lean toward high sweetness, balance, softness, and gentle fruit acidity. If you’re looking for those traditional dark chocolate and nutty profiles, you might have a hard time finding them here. But that’s exactly what makes their selection so distinctive—it reflects a clear and thoughtful understanding of coffee flavors.

For example, they feature classic Ethiopian regions like Bensa and Buku—two of my absolute favorites. I mean, how did they manage to include all my “top picks”? They really understand Ethiopian coffee… and me, apparently. Even more surprising, they had a Rwanda white honey-processed bean as a regular offering—something you don’t come across very often. Both the origin and the processing method are enough to spark curiosity and invite deeper exploration.

So naturally, I had to dedicate my first cup to this Rwanda bean—from the Mutovu washing station, a white honey-processed Red Bourbon. I have a kind of “white moonlight” obsession with Rwanda coffees. I might only drink them a few times a year, but if it’s been a while, I’ll find myself thinking about them, missing them, and eventually buying a bag just to revisit that taste. I can’t quite explain why, but Rwanda has never let me down. It’s like a quiet, dependable companion in your daily coffee routine—simple, honest, yet always hiding a little surprise.

The Mutovu washing station is quite well-known in Rwanda. Established in 2012 in the Nyamasheke region of western Rwanda, it benefits from fertile soil and convenient transportation thanks to nearby small farms. The elevation ranges from 1,800 to 1,950 meters. Mutovu is a small cooperative of nine farmers, each managing between 1,500 and 5,000 coffee trees. Their coffee has consistently been excellent, and the cooperative continues to improve its techniques and equipment every year.

Red Bourbon is the main variety grown here, well-suited for elevations between 1,100 and 2,000 meters, with yields 20–30% higher than Typica. In addition to traditional washed processing, they also produce white honey-processed coffee. This method removes about 80–90% of the mucilage, placing it somewhere between washed and natural processing. The result is a beautifully balanced profile—combining the clean acidity of washed coffee with the sweetness of honey processing.

I chose to have this Rwanda as a hot Americano, and honestly, I think it’s the perfect way to experience it. The flavor reminded me of soft dried apple—especially comforting on a cool, rainy Shanghai day. It also carried notes of fruit tea and subtle berry-like sweetness. The quality of this green coffee must be exceptional. It was fantastic—truly delicious.

As for my second cup, there was no question—it had to be Ethiopian. Choosing between Bensa and Buku felt like choosing between two favorites. Since it had been a while since I last had Buku, I went with an Ethiopian Buku Sayisa from the Wate processing station, featuring washed 74110 and 74112 varieties.

This selection is a classic in every sense—origin, processing station, and varietals. The Buku Sayisa station sits at an altitude of 2,350 meters, making it one of the highest coffee processing sites in Ethiopia. It collects cherries from nearby smallholder farmers and often produces micro-lots, giving the coffee a more refined and distinctive character compared to typical Ethiopian offerings.

I had this one as a flat white—and I absolutely loved it. The bright, floral, and fruity notes of 74110 paired beautifully with the fuller body and softer acidity of 74112. Honestly, it felt like you couldn’t go wrong with this combination.

After my first sip, I couldn’t help but say out loud, “Wow, this is so good,” which even made the people at the next table laugh. It was incredibly clean and sweet, with hints of cookies and a touch of cheese, layered with that signature citrus brightness. The finish carried a syrupy sweetness, creating such a fascinating and complex flavor experience.

LE PARLOR Shanghai | A Vintage American-Style Specialty Coffee Bar Worth Traveling For

 Toward the end of last year, I went to Shanghai for the CAFEEX exhibition. This edition was held at the Shanghai International Sourcing Exhibition Center, an area that, for me, was still an unexplored corner of the city. Before setting off, I did what I always do: opened my saved list of Shanghai cafés and searched for spots near my destination. Almost instantly, a café I’d bookmarked ages ago rose to the top—LE PARLOR, located at 629 Zhongjiang Road in Putuo District. With Changfeng Park as a reference point, it’s an easy walk away. One trip, two pleasures: the expo and a long-awaited café visit. Even thinking about it felt perfect. Sure enough, the saying “when the time is right, you’ll naturally arrive” felt more true than ever.

On weekend mornings, the street where LE PARLOR sits is unusually quiet. What surprised me was that several neighboring shops all shared a distinctly American retro vibe. A nearby barber shop set the tone immediately, pulling me straight into a time warp. The moment I stepped onto Zhongjiang Road, it felt like walking into a long-held dream scene of mine. Maybe it was this unique opening that filled me with endless anticipation for the still-mysterious LE PARLOR.

If I’m being honest, compared to my usual café-hopping routes in central Shanghai, LE PARLOR feels a bit like “the edge of the universe.” But that’s exactly why it works. The space is larger, and the customers tend to linger—after all, there aren’t many better alternatives nearby (haha). From the storefront to the interior, from the cups and saucers to the equipment, everything radiates American vintage charm. And then there’s the dual-head Kees Slim Jim lever machine… my god. Every single thing I love was gathered right here. It hit every one of my aesthetic pressure points. This is the kind of café that becomes a destination in itself—almost mythical. Absolute perfection.

Winter can feel a little bleak, but Shanghai’s plane trees still line the streets. As warm sunlight filters through their leaves and spills into the café, it creates a mosaic of light and shadow. Honestly—it felt unreal. Dreamlike. I love this kind of atmosphere more than I can say. Inside, antique furniture fills the space, alongside delicate 20th-century Italian marble sculptures, each with a small explanatory card. In that moment, it feels less like a café and more like a European museum. The craftsmanship—how cold marble can be carved into something so gentle and warm—is astonishing. It reminds you that the most essential things time leaves behind are often the most unforgettable.

LE PARLOR’s menu leans heavily toward espresso-based drinks. They usually carry four to five different espresso options, with seasonal selections rotating throughout the year. Naturally, I wanted to start light—to wake up my palate. I chose an SOE flat white made with Ethiopian Bensa beans from the Ayla processing station.

A Journey Through Flavor

One sip of that Bensa flat white and I was instantly energized. I stood right at the bar and finished it on the spot. The window for tasting coffee at its peak is fleeting—you have to drink it at its most perfect moment. That, to me, is the highest respect you can give a carefully crafted cup.
Bensa is one of those coffees you can drink with your eyes closed and trust completely. I say this every time, because it’s unwaveringly consistent. It delivers the most classic expression of Ethiopian terroir, time after time. Everything you want from a milk-based Ethiopian coffee is there. One sip and you’re hooked. Bright citrus creaminess up front, followed by an incredible maple-syrup sweetness in the mid to late finish. Exceptionally clean.

Most of the coffee here is served in vintage American Corning milk glass cups. I have zero resistance to milk glass—it has the satisfying weight of glass, yet the soft, jade-like warmth of fine porcelain. Paired with the café’s retro aesthetic, how could you not fall in love?

I arrived a little after nine in the morning, so naturally I needed something small to eat. Thankfully, the pastries here are right up my alley. I usually avoid pairing coffee with food, preferring a clean palate so I can fully focus on the coffee itself. But if I have to choose, my ideal companions are canelés, kouign-amann, or financiers. And here? Two of my favorites in one place. There was no question—I ordered them all.

The canelé is served chilled. If you get one early in the morning, it pairs beautifully with a hot Americano—the sweetness and richness find a kind of joyful balance. The kouign-amann is gently warmed, making the crust even more fragrant and crisp.

After a palate opener like that, a second cup was inevitable. I went with a medium-dark roast blend of washed Colombian and washed Ethiopian beans. After a brief thought, I told the barista, “Make it a hot Americano—I want to see how clean it is,” laughing as I said it.
The roast was excellent. The gentle acidity of the washed beans wasn’t lost despite the deeper roast. High body, comfortable stone-fruit acidity—this kind of cup naturally has layers and a strong sense of identity. It’s hard to say no. Notes of chocolate and cocoa came through, with just a hint of spice in the middle, before everything settled into a long, lingering sweetness. Clean to the very end.

Sometimes, cafés filled with vintage charm stir something deeper in me. They make me nostalgic for beautiful things. There are certain qualities in my world that never fade with time—almost like quiet obsessions. Even when they leave me feeling tired, I still choose to honor who I am, just as I let others be who they are. In our own independent worlds, we each search for a life that truly belongs to us.

Shanghai Has 10,000 Coffee Shops: Is the Specialty Coffee Boom Sustainable?

 Over the past decade, coffee consumption in China has grown by 150%, far outpacing the global average.

As of 2024, Shanghai is home to 9,115 coffee shops—more than London, New York, or Tokyo.
Local roasters, specialty chains, and tech-driven retail concepts now form a complete ecosystem.
…

If you search online for how China’s specialty coffee market has evolved in recent years, you’ll see plenty of statistics like these. And Shanghai, more than any other city, stands at the center of it all. Whether viewed through the lens of history and culture, or through sheer economic momentum and speed of development, Shanghai has delivered what may be the most convincing report card for specialty coffee in China. These numbers almost justify calling it a global coffee capital—perhaps “one of” them, at least.

But numbers alone are never the full story. To understand their deeper economic meaning, one premise must be made clear: a city is not defined as a coffee capital simply by the number of cafés it has. What truly underpins today’s apparent prosperity is a convergence of factors—digitized consumption powered by the internet, unprecedented speed and convenience, and a young consumer base driven by curiosity and a desire to explore new flavors. Together, these forces have created the current boom.

New coffee brands are emerging and attracting capital at a remarkable pace. Investment pours in. Delivery platforms can bring you a latte in minutes. Cafés iterate their menus rapidly through O2O data feedback. Response times are faster, information is more transparent, and optimization cycles are shorter than ever before.

In many ways, Shanghai represents the most concentrated expression of this integration and optimization. It showcases what a new era of coffee consumption looks like: flavor experiences anchored offline, combined with technology-driven operations and community-building, gradually forming a complete coffee ecosystem.

Yet history suggests that growth rarely escapes a cyclical pattern. As we push forward and obsess over rising metrics, we must also acknowledge the hidden and potential crises lurking behind the data. In truth, I don’t see complete ease or unshakable optimism on the faces of café owners. Yes, Shanghai’s consumption potential remains strong, but with nearly 10,000 cafés—and likely already more than that—the market is inevitably entering a new set of rules. Who defines those rules? And how does one establish a true anchor point amid such overwhelming competition? The struggle to survive is real, and often brutal.

Young consumers today are driven by curiosity. If something tastes novel or looks interesting, they’re willing to pay for it. I say this as someone who has long since lost the sense of awe around coffee festivals. Back in their peak years—around 2017–2018—I could spend an entire day inside a single exhibition hall, unable to leave, because there were simply too many outstanding roasters from around the world worth exploring.

Today, that sense of fulfillment is much harder to find. Not long ago, I came across an interview clip from a coffee festival. One attendee said, “These coffees are great for photos. I drink too many Americanos in daily life—I like these little sweet drinks at festivals.” Honestly, just listen to that. But then again, it perfectly captures the core logic of many coffee festivals today. In that moment, I realized how closely the coffee industry is beginning to mirror—and even overlap with—the developmental path of the internet industry.

As global demand in Europe and the U.S. slows, Shanghai—arguably the flagship of China’s coffee scene—seems to be reshaping itself as an emerging market of its own. Cafés are no longer just selling standard coffee drinks; many now offer espresso-based creations branded as “creative coffee” or “coffee mocktails.” Whether this is genuine innovation or simply the creation of a new consumption track is hard to say. What is clear is that it allows for better margins and aligns perfectly with young consumers’ appetite for novelty.

But is this sustainable? Few seem to care about long-term accumulation or depth. Immediate returns and satisfying present demand appear to be the dominant logic. Is this really the safe path? Is it truly right? Or, more fundamentally—can we continue like this?

I don’t have a definitive answer. Sometimes I wonder what exactly I’m uneasy about. I also struggle to explain why I now feel almost no interest in most new cafés. Perhaps it’s because what I see is a kind of “glossy illusion” built on hollow demand. In the U.S., opening a café can easily take a year. In China, it might take a month. When one café closes, another often opens within weeks. I’ve even found myself awkwardly telling café owners, mid-conversation, “I’ve been to the café that used to be here… and the one before that.”

Even the equipment inside cafés has become a kind of mobile hard asset—second-hand, third-hand machines get recycled from shop to shop. Sometimes all it takes is a new sign, a refreshed interior, and the place reopens as a brand-new café, ready for another run. What I’m seeing may only be a fragment of the bigger picture, but it carries a sense of helplessness. Cafés have become the go-to entrepreneurial choice for many, largely because the barrier to entry is so low.

People rush in fueled by ideals and optimism, yet often you can predict the lifespan of a café from the moment it opens. And still, these cafés continue to appear—again and again. That’s why everything is moving so fast. But when physical businesses begin to operate at internet speed, I don’t feel excitement. I feel a deeper silence.

Recently, a friend vented to me about being crushed by the “delivery wars.” He complained that some roasters are selling beans cheaper than his own green coffee costs, leaving him genuinely confused about how anyone is making money. The market feels collectively absurd. As China’s coffee consumption evolved—from rigidly copying Western models to customizing its own demand—consumer behavior such as going to cafés primarily to take photos rather than drink coffee has been fully validated and embraced.

From a dialectical perspective, compared with Western markets struggling with aging consumers and shrinking demand, Shanghai’s emphasis on community and entertainment feels vibrant and creative. But if the industry caters endlessly to every fragmented consumer desire, what kind of outcome does that lead to?

In the short term, it looks like “user-first.” In essence, however, it reflects a loss of value and a blurring of category identity. Coffee’s core value—appreciating an agricultural product—gets reduced to a convenient vehicle for caffeine and sugar. Over time, consumers stop caring about bean quality altogether, and the industry loses its cultural and qualitative foundation.

The rapid cycle of openings and closures exposes another issue: homogenized competition and innovation turned inward—innovation for the sake of innovation. It becomes the emperor’s new clothes. Novelty spirals into absurdity: chili coffee today, cilantro Americanos tomorrow. These ideas are easy to copy and impossible to defend, offering no lasting brand moat. Competition shifts away from bean quality, roasting skill, or extraction technique, and instead becomes about who can be stranger or louder. The result is stagnation at the level that truly matters.

In the end, trying to satisfy every demand is itself a form of strategic laziness. Excessive pandering causes an industry to lose its sense of self, compete inefficiently, and cultivate consumers with increasingly extreme tastes but little loyalty. A healthy coffee ecosystem should be one in which practitioners and consumers grow together—embracing diversity while continuing to communicate coffee’s core value and cultural depth.