Over the past year, I’ve realized that when I come to Shanghai, it’s no longer specifically for café hopping—it’s more about catching a live show, with a café visit along the way. Sometimes, that sense of ease in life comes from something unplanned. Compared to my earlier days—when I would hit six cafés in one day and drink up to eight cups of coffee—these days I’ve become much more go-with-the-flow.
The cafés I choose now reflect a more open mindset. They’ve become little “annotations” to my everyday life. Just like the one I want to talk about today: Haw Side Coffee, located at No. 2031-4, Zhongshan South 2nd Road in Xuhui District. Visiting it felt like one of those “meant-to-be detours.”
By “meant to be,” I mean this café had been sitting in my saved list for quite a while. And by “detour,” I mean my main reason for coming to Shanghai was to attend a concert by the American rock band Imagine Dragons—and this café just happens to be right next to Shanghai Stadium. So before the show, I grabbed a coffee here, then went off to enjoy an electrifying night. Honestly, the plan worked out perfectly—effortless and practical. If you ever come here for a concert, I’d definitely recommend stopping by Haw Side for a cup first.
As for the location, Haw Side is honestly a bit tucked away. There’s no obvious signage, and it’s partially hidden behind a planter near an elevated roadway, making it easy to miss. But for someone like me—who’s visited countless cafés—I’ve seen all kinds of unusual locations. A “destination café” like this really has only one way to win people over: exceptional coffee.
You can see the entire café from outside. The space is extremely limited, with room for maybe eight people at most. Inside, it has a triangular layout, which feels a bit unique. Still, you can tell that every inch has been thoughtfully designed—prioritizing functionality while still offering a bit of comfort for seated guests. As the saying goes, “small but complete.” And honestly, if it ever feels a little cramped, just take a sip of your coffee—you’ll instantly feel more at ease. Trust me.
I visited on a weekday afternoon. It wasn’t peak hours, yet the seats were almost fully occupied. A steady flow of coffee lovers came and went—staying, chatting, and exploring flavors. That’s the magic of a café. While Haw Side’s physical space is small, its spirit feels abundant. Their bean lineup is impressive: the house beans are all solid classics, and they also offer pour-over options from various guest roasters. I imagine every visit here could turn into a completely different flavor journey.
When I visited, their espresso offerings immediately caught my attention. They exclusively use single-origin espresso (SOE), and the flavor profiles lean toward high sweetness, balance, softness, and gentle fruit acidity. If you’re looking for those traditional dark chocolate and nutty profiles, you might have a hard time finding them here. But that’s exactly what makes their selection so distinctive—it reflects a clear and thoughtful understanding of coffee flavors.
For example, they feature classic Ethiopian regions like Bensa and Buku—two of my absolute favorites. I mean, how did they manage to include all my “top picks”? They really understand Ethiopian coffee… and me, apparently. Even more surprising, they had a Rwanda white honey-processed bean as a regular offering—something you don’t come across very often. Both the origin and the processing method are enough to spark curiosity and invite deeper exploration.
So naturally, I had to dedicate my first cup to this Rwanda bean—from the Mutovu washing station, a white honey-processed Red Bourbon. I have a kind of “white moonlight” obsession with Rwanda coffees. I might only drink them a few times a year, but if it’s been a while, I’ll find myself thinking about them, missing them, and eventually buying a bag just to revisit that taste. I can’t quite explain why, but Rwanda has never let me down. It’s like a quiet, dependable companion in your daily coffee routine—simple, honest, yet always hiding a little surprise.
The Mutovu washing station is quite well-known in Rwanda. Established in 2012 in the Nyamasheke region of western Rwanda, it benefits from fertile soil and convenient transportation thanks to nearby small farms. The elevation ranges from 1,800 to 1,950 meters. Mutovu is a small cooperative of nine farmers, each managing between 1,500 and 5,000 coffee trees. Their coffee has consistently been excellent, and the cooperative continues to improve its techniques and equipment every year.
Red Bourbon is the main variety grown here, well-suited for elevations between 1,100 and 2,000 meters, with yields 20–30% higher than Typica. In addition to traditional washed processing, they also produce white honey-processed coffee. This method removes about 80–90% of the mucilage, placing it somewhere between washed and natural processing. The result is a beautifully balanced profile—combining the clean acidity of washed coffee with the sweetness of honey processing.
I chose to have this Rwanda as a hot Americano, and honestly, I think it’s the perfect way to experience it. The flavor reminded me of soft dried apple—especially comforting on a cool, rainy Shanghai day. It also carried notes of fruit tea and subtle berry-like sweetness. The quality of this green coffee must be exceptional. It was fantastic—truly delicious.
As for my second cup, there was no question—it had to be Ethiopian. Choosing between Bensa and Buku felt like choosing between two favorites. Since it had been a while since I last had Buku, I went with an Ethiopian Buku Sayisa from the Wate processing station, featuring washed 74110 and 74112 varieties.
This selection is a classic in every sense—origin, processing station, and varietals. The Buku Sayisa station sits at an altitude of 2,350 meters, making it one of the highest coffee processing sites in Ethiopia. It collects cherries from nearby smallholder farmers and often produces micro-lots, giving the coffee a more refined and distinctive character compared to typical Ethiopian offerings.
I had this one as a flat white—and I absolutely loved it. The bright, floral, and fruity notes of 74110 paired beautifully with the fuller body and softer acidity of 74112. Honestly, it felt like you couldn’t go wrong with this combination.
After my first sip, I couldn’t help but say out loud, “Wow, this is so good,” which even made the people at the next table laugh. It was incredibly clean and sweet, with hints of cookies and a touch of cheese, layered with that signature citrus brightness. The finish carried a syrupy sweetness, creating such a fascinating and complex flavor experience.
