From Washed to Co-Fermentation: How Colombian Coffee Processing Is Redefining Flavor

 When we talk about Colombia as a coffee-producing country, if this conversation had happened a decade or more ago, the first thing that would likely come to mind is water. Thanks to its abundant water resources, Colombia traditionally relied heavily on washed processing methods. For many coffee lovers who were once captivated by the bright, elegant acidity of classic Colombian washed coffees, Colombia left a lasting and positive impression. In traditional espresso blends, Colombian washed coffees also played a crucial role in providing balance and cleanliness of flavor.

Yet somehow, at an uncertain point in time, the image of Colombia began to shift. Today, when people mention Colombian coffee, what often comes to mind is a dazzling array of so-called innovative processing methods—especially eye-catching co-fermentations. At one point, simply hearing “Colombia” made people instinctively ask: What process is it? Is it another bold experiment? What exactly happened behind this dramatic shift in reputation? Today, let’s talk about the development history of Colombia’s so-called “extreme processing.”

Colombia’s golden era was undeniably brilliant. So much so that its authoritative coffee institutions standardized quality and published strict processing guidelines. The label “100% Colombian” carried real weight—those who know, know. Coffees that were both intensely flavorful and remarkably clean felt like a reflection of Colombia itself: passionate, vibrant, and deeply intoxicating.

However, as the global coffee market has evolved in recent years, consumer preferences have become far more diverse. Many drinkers are now searching for entirely new flavors and sensory experiences in coffee. To some extent, this shift has pushed pressure back onto producers, encouraging them to seek out methods that can deliver more striking and memorable flavors.

After looking into relevant materials, I believe there is a very direct reason behind Colombia’s transformation. Over the past several decades, traditional washed coffee has often failed to cover rising production costs. For many farming families, growing and processing coffee alone did not lift them out of poverty. As a result, they were compelled to seek breakthroughs in processing methods—exploring new flavor possibilities that could justify more sustainable and meaningful prices.

It’s worth noting that while washed coffee still remains the core of Colombia’s exports, over the past five years Colombia has become widely known for producing co-fermented and other experimental processed coffees.

In an era of fierce global competition and rising costs, Colombia—long regarded as a pillar of the coffee world—has its core markets in Europe and Asia. Consumers in these regions increasingly value intensity of flavor, aromatic richness, and striking floral or fruity profiles. Co-fermentation seems almost tailor-made to satisfy these preferences.

That said, I still believe that no matter how astonishing the flavors produced by these special processes may be, they cannot fully replace or surpass coffees made with traditional methods. On a global scale, experimental lots remain a niche market. However, their premium potential is significant, which explains why more and more producers are willing to invest in special processing techniques.

Colombia is also home to over 560,000 smallholder coffee farmers and boasts one of the most developed agricultural extension systems in the world. Its infrastructure is relatively strong. Once a small number of producers begin experimenting with fruit-added co-fermentation or the use of specific yeast cultures, others tend to follow quickly. The speed at which these practices spread is remarkable.

Moreover, today’s coffee producers in Colombia are largely from a younger generation. Many are well-educated and possess a deeper understanding of specialty coffee and market demand. Their thinking often breaks away from traditional constraints, allowing them to embrace experimentation more openly.

Colombia’s evolution in coffee processing reflects not only a breakthrough amid market opportunities and challenges, but also an attempt to improve livelihoods and economic conditions. Regardless of how many forces and motivations lie behind it, we must acknowledge that innovations such as fermenting with fruit pulp, grape must (mosto), or controlled microbial cultures have, at least conceptually, challenged our definition of “quality.”

The debate around flavored coffees and infused beans may never truly be resolved. Perhaps they are both destined to exist as “rebels”—forever unwelcome among purists who remain loyal to traditional processing methods.

Beyond that, the National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia (FNC), the very institution that once defined the quality standards of “100% Colombian” coffee, now finds itself at a crossroads. Historically, it served as a guardian of Colombia’s coffee identity, protecting traditional standards. But given today’s domestic industry landscape and the emergence of new processing methods, it may need to accept a broader, more diverse, and less predictable definition of Colombian coffee.

As long as processing methods are fully transparent and clearly communicated to consumers, expanding the diversity of Colombian coffee holds enormous potential.

On the other hand, experimentation with co-fermentation and other special processes demands extremely high levels of variable control. Innovation often comes with significant losses, repeated restarts, and heavy investments of time and resources—costs that not everyone can afford. Additionally, green coffee from these special processes tends to be expensive. While cafés can showcase a wider range of flavors and processing styles on their menus, consumers must also pay more for these novelty-driven experiences.

Furthermore, special processing does not guarantee consistency. Compared to traditional methods, these coffees carry a higher degree of instability from batch to batch. This instability is likely one of the key reasons why such methods have never truly displaced traditional processing at the core of the industry.

For Colombia, the current strategy remains clear: traditional washed coffee continues to anchor its foundation. After all, it is still Colombia’s national coffee calling card—central to its identity and the backbone of its industry. On top of this foundation, Colombia creates space and legitimacy for innovation. This approach gives Colombian producers far greater flexibility and adaptability in green coffee processing than many other countries.

Colombia can no longer be summed up by a simple phrase like “bright and clean washed coffee.” Colombia has rewritten the rules of Colombian coffee.