When it comes to sharing coffee reviews, I don’t just talk about different origins or individual estates. I also like approaching flavor from the perspective of varietals and processing methods. The more detailed your entry point into a tasting, the more layers of enjoyment you unlock. At best, I’m simply offering a starting point—some insights into bean selection and flavor references—so that next time you’re choosing coffee, you’ll pay a little closer attention to certain regions and producers.
Today’s feature, Panama’s El Pergamino Estate, is not appearing in my reviews for the first time. I previously shared their Geisha last year. As a well-recognized estate on the Best of Panama (BOP) list, it has long attracted serious coffee enthusiasts. But this time, I want to explore something a bit different: two Yellow Bourbon lots from the same estate, processed using two different anaerobic methods. Comparing their flavors gave me a deeper appreciation of El Pergamino. A prestigious estate truly lives up to its name.
“El Pergamino” is Spanish for “parchment,” referring to the thin yellow protective layer surrounding the coffee bean—the endocarp, composed of cellulose—that naturally remains after the outer fruit is removed. Located in the Cerro Punta region of Panama, specifically in the Bambito area at 1,960 meters above sea level, this estate produces some of the world’s rarest Geisha coffees. El Pergamino is operated by Spanish-Panamanian couple Janet Lucich and her husband. They originally cultivated potatoes, but since 2017, they have shifted their focus to growing Geisha and Yellow Bourbon.
Though El Pergamino is not a large estate, its coffees consistently express a refined elegance—small but beautiful. They often surprise you in subtle ways, creating distinct flavor memories. While the estate is known primarily for traditional processing methods, the two coffees I tasted this time—an anaerobic washed and an anaerobic natural—left me with one clear impression: anaerobic processing techniques have become increasingly mature and sophisticated. Today, they beautifully merge the cleanliness of washed coffees with the high sweetness of naturals. It’s something I genuinely love.
Both lots feature Yellow Bourbon, a varietal known for balanced acidity, pronounced sweetness, and a rounded mouthfeel. Flavor notes often include citrus, caramel, nuts, and chocolate in harmonious layers. If you tend to enjoy coffees that are gentle yet complex, this is a varietal worth paying attention to.
Let’s start with the anaerobic washed Yellow Bourbon. Its standout feature appears the moment you grind it. The dry aroma bursts with honeyed floral sweetness—an instant mood-lifter. There’s also a vivid red fruit character, reminiscent of juicy berries. Its aromatic intensity is captivating and confidently expressive.
Many people approach anaerobic coffees with caution during brewing, worrying they may be less forgiving. But this is where a great estate shines. Their processing amplifies flavor while thoughtful roasting ensures excellent brew tolerance. For both coffees, you can stick to your usual brewing routine without special adjustments. I recommend using a fast-flow filter paper and keeping total brew time between 1:30 and 1:40.
Once brewed, the wet aroma of the anaerobic washed reveals notes of peach and apricot juice—soft, inviting, and comforting. On the palate, the body is beautifully round and smooth. The sweetness is abundant, balanced by moderate acidity and citrus-like fruit notes, accompanied by hints of stone fruit complexity. The overall experience feels like a gentle breeze brushing across your face—elegant and understated. Before you know it, the cup is gone.
It’s exceptionally drinkable. In my brews, I kept the final brew ratio around 1:13, which produced a remarkably pleasant and mellow profile. The flavor structure is clear, with noticeable layers and progression from start to finish.
Now, turning to the anaerobic natural Yellow Bourbon. Simply grinding it reveals a fundamentally different aromatic focus. The dry fragrance carries the hallmark fermented tropical fruit character typical of anaerobic naturals—raspberry and pineapple stand out, with an impressively high sweetness.
Using nearly identical brewing parameters (again, a 1:13 ratio and about 1:37 brew time), I kept the process consistent to better highlight their differences. In the wet aroma, I detected plum-like notes along with jammy sweetness.
What surprised me most was that upon tasting, the fermented character virtually disappeared. That significantly elevated my expectations and appreciation. I can enjoy the richness and sweetness that anaerobic fermentation brings, but I don’t particularly like overt fermented flavors. This anaerobic natural retained its high sweetness while remaining remarkably clean and refreshing. The acidity was soft and approachable.
It’s sweet, vibrant, and simply delicious.
